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Once the capital of several historical kingdoms within Georgia, Kutaisi is today something of a charming backwater. Now the country's third city – Batumi eclipsed it as second city in 2014 – most people know Kutaisi for its airport, which has become Georgia's main hub for low-cost airlines. But it would be a mistake to skip this lovely town, which makes a great base for exploring the region of Imereti and has a smattering of worthwhile sights and restaurants to enjoy itself.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Kutaisi.
Cathedral
Kutaisi's cathedral was built in 1003 by Bagrat III, with a tall drum and pointed dome resting on four freestanding pillars. In 1692 a Turkish explosion brought down drum, dome and ceiling to leave the cathedral in a ruined state. It was fully renovated between 2009 and 2012, with a mix of old and new stone and a few steel sections.
Museum
The history museum has superb collections from all around western Georgia, but a guided tour is a good idea as labelling is poor. The highlight is the Golden Fund section, with a marvellous exhibition of icons and crosses in precious metals and jewels, including a large, reputedly miracle-working icon that used to reside in the Bagrati Cathedral.
Fortress
The ruined palace-citadel immediately east of the Bagrati Cathedral dates back to the 6th century. It was ruined in 1769 by bombardment from the forces of Solomon I of Imereti and the Russian General Todtleben as they fought to take Kutaisi from the Turks, and is now somewhat overgrown – but you can see remains of wine cellars at its west end and of a church in the middle, and parts of the medieval walls.
Market
Kutaisi's indoor produce market is one of the largest, liveliest and most colourful in Georgia, full of cheese, walnuts, spices, herbs, fruit, vegetables, meat, churchkhela (strings of walnuts coated in grape-juice caramel), beans, wine, pickles and plenty more.
Fountain
The central square, Tsentraluri moedani, focuses on the large ornamental Colchis Fountain, adorned with large-scale copies of the famous gold jewellery discovered at the nearby archaeological site of Vani.
Theatre
Kutaisi's opera house has been renovated with lines of classical statues, inspired by its famous Vienna counterpart, adorning it.
Theatre
Kutaisi's handsome drama theatre overlooks the picturesque central square.