The vast Place St-Nicolas, nearly 300m long and one of France's largest squares, sprawls from the ferry port towards the old harbor. Shaded by palms and plane trees, it's the focus of everyday life in Bastia. Throughout summer it's enlivened by free concerts. It's bordered by a string of attractive terrace cafes along its western edge. Our favorite spot for people-watching is the Palais des Glaces (lepalaisdesglaces.com), a brasserie with a marble-floored dining room and attractive terrace tables.