In polls of France's most romantic towns, Troyes invariably makes the grade – and with good reason. Its astonishingly intact, ludicrously pretty historic centre wings you back to the Middle Ages, with its warren of cobbled streets, fine ensemble of half-timbered houses in pastel hues, once home to wealthy textile merchants, and uplifting Gothic churches. Often overlooked, it’s one of the best places to get a sense of what Europe looked like back when Molière was penning his finest plays and the Three Musketeers were swashbuckling.
Troyes punches well above its weight culturally, too, with a raft of galleries and museums that are both fascinating and unique, homing in on everything from apothecaries to tools, hosiery and modern art.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Troyes.