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Habana del Este is home to Playas del Este, a multiflavored if slightly unkempt beach strip situated 18km east of Habana Vieja. While the beaches here are sublime, the accompanying resorts aren't exactly luxurious. Rather, Playas del Este has a timeworn and slightly abandoned air, and aspiring beach loungers might find the ugly Soviet-style hotel piles more than a little incongruous. But for those who dislike modern tourist development or are keen to see how Cubans get out and enjoy themselves, Playas del Este is a breath of fresh air.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Habana del Este.
Cuban
Ajiaco CaféThere are, arguably, two reasons to come to suburban Cojímar: 1) to pursue the ghost of Ernest Hemingway and 2) to visit this farm-to-table restaurant named for a quintessential Cuban stew that headlines a menu of Cuban classics, all executed with rustic creativity.
Italian
Il PiccoloThis Guanabo private restaurant has been around for eons and is an open secret among habaneros, some of whom consider its thin-crust wood-oven pizzas to be the best in Cuba. Out of the way and a little more expensive than Playas del Este's other numerous pizza joints, it's well worth the journey (take a horse and cart on Av 5).
Seafood
La Terraza de CojímarAnother shrine to the ghost of Hemingway, La Terraza specializes in seafood and does a roaring trade with the hordes of Papa fans who are bused in daily. The food is surprisingly mediocre, although the terrace dining room overlooking the bay is pleasant. More atmospheric is the old bar out front, where mojito prices haven't yet reached El Floridita levels.
Cafe
Pan.comIt’s cheap, it’s state run and it’s pretty gritty inside, but this Cuban fast-food joint in Guanabo lures in locals with hot sandwiches on wonderful crusty Cuban bread that crumbles all over the table when you bite into it. Round off proceedings with a creamy CUC$1 milkshake and you’ll be more than ready for a hard day at the beach.
International
Restaurante 421Ask a local where to eat in Guanabo and they'll probably direct you up the gentle hill behind the main roundabout to this pleasant perch that has a surprisingly wide selection of Cuban favorites, mixed with international dishes such as paella, rabbit and the inevitable pizza. Sit on the breeze-lapped patio and enjoy the attentive service.
Cuban
Mi CayitoA small bar-restaurant reached via a raised boardwalk that overlooks Laguna Itabo, a small lagoon abutting Playa Boca Ciega, Mi Cayito is a quiet spot surrounded by nature. It sells solid if unremarkable Cuban food.
International
Chicken LittleForgive it the kitschy name – Chicken Little could yet make it big. Defying Guanabo’s ramshackle image, this deluxe restaurant has polite waitstaff with welcome cocktails who’ll talk you through a menu of pesto chicken, chicken in orange and honey, and at least a dozen more varieties.
Seafood
Don PepeWhen the Guanabo pizza gets too much, head to this thatched-roof, beach-style restaurant about 50m from the sands of Playa Santa María. It specializes in seafood.
Cuban
Restaurante CostarenasThis scruffy place is part of Villa Los Pinos, but it'll serve you its OK-ish fish dishes and pizzas either on a breezy 1st-floor terrace or under thatched umbrellas right on El Mégano beach.