Alegría de Pío

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Considered hallowed revolutionary ground, this is the spot where Castro's shipwrecked rebels were intercepted by Batista's army in 1956 and forced to split up and flee. It's also the official finishing point for the 18km hike from Las Coloradas following the rebels' route in December 1956. There's guided hiking, birdwatching and exploration of a fascinating cave system. It's accessed via 28km of potholed purgatory from a turnoff in Niquero. Bring plenty of drinking water.

There's a monument in the sugarcane field where the rebels were surprised. It's emblazoned with the names of the fallen and the words 'Nadie se rinde aqui, cojone!' (No one surrenders here, bollocks!), supposedly shouted by Camilo Cienfuegos and repeated by Juan Almeida as all hell broke loose. A guide will show you around the site, which includes various graves, billboards and a cave where Che Guevara and Juan Almeida hid for two days.

The highlight for outdoors enthusiasts will be the cave system. Morlotte-Fustete is a 2km trail that traverses the spectacular marine terraces (sometimes using wooden ladders) and takes in the Cueva del Fustete – a 5km-long cavern replete with stalagmites and stalactites – and the Hoyo de Morlotte, a 77m deep karstic hole caused by water erosion. El Samuel is a 1.3km trail to the Cueva Espelunca, thought to have been used by indigenous people for religious ceremonies. Boca de Toro is a 6km trail to high cliffs overlooking a river valley and takes in the Farallón de Blanquizal, a beautiful natural lookout.

From here the rebel trail from Las Coloradas continues east to Cinco Palmas and, ultimately, Comendancia La Plata.


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