Image by Dallas Stribley / Getty Images
Elegant and old, this relatively hush city spells oasis to the traveler weary of confrontation. Predating both Havana and Santiago, it has been cast for time immemorial as the city that kick-started Cuban independence. Yet self-important it isn't. The ciudad de los coches (city of horsecarts) is an easygoing, slow-paced, trapped-in-time place, where you're more likely to be quoted literature than sold trinkets. Cuba's balmiest provincial capital, it resounds to the clip-clop of hooves; nearly half the population use horses for daily travel.
Bayamo has played a sacrificial role in Cuba's convoluted historical development. 'Como España quemó a Sagunto, así Cuba quemó a Bayamo,' (As the Spanish burnt Sagunto, the Cubans burnt Bayamo) wrote José Martí in the 1890s. While an 1869 arson blaze destroyed many of the city's classic colonial buildings, there's still plenty left. Neither did it undermine Bayamo's intransigent spirit or its long-standing traditions.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Bayamo.
Square
Parque CéspedesOne of Cuba's leafiest squares, Bayamo's central meeting point is surrounded by pedestrian-only streets, making it a rare and peaceful spot. In addition to its friendly airs and role as the city's best outdoor music venue (orchestras regularly play here), the square is loaded with historical significance.
Gardens
Jardín Botánico de CupaynicuFor a floral appreciation of Bayamo's evergreen hinterland, head to this botanic garden about 16km outside the city off the Guisa road. It's on very few itineraries, so you can have the serene, serendipitous 104 hectares more or less to yourself. There are 74 types of palms, scores of cacti, blooming orchids and sections for endangered and medicinal plants.
Factory
Fabrica de los CochesIt's worth the jaunt to observe the goings-on at Cuba's only handcrafted coche (horse cart) production line. Most horse carts you'll see in Cuba are metal, but these are fashioned in wood and take far longer to produce (up to three months per cart).
Museum
Casa Natal de Carlos Manuel de CéspedesBirthplace of the 'father of the motherland,' this museum is where Céspedes was born (on April 18, 1819) and spent his first 12 years. Inside, Céspedes memorabilia is complemented by a collection of spectacularly preserved period furniture. It's notable architecturally as Bayamo's only remaining two-story colonial house, one of the few buildings to survive the 1869 fire.
Area
Paseo BayamésBayamo's main shopping street was pedestrianized in the 1990s and reconfigured with benches and funky artwork. At its southern end you'll find wax museum Museo de Cera; centrally, there are various public utilities and Cuban-style commerce, including food stalls at night.
Museum
Museo de CeraThe tiny Museo de Cera, Bayamo’s diminutive version of Madame Tussauds, has convincing waxworks of Cuban personalities such as Polo Montañez, Benny Moré and local hero Carlos Puebla. On a more internationalist note, you'll also find Gabriel García Márquez and Hugo Chávez.
Church
Catedral de San Salvador de BayamoThere's been a church on this site since 1514. The current edifice dates from 1740 but was devastated in the 1869 fire, so much of what you see results from building work in 1919. One original section surviving the fire is the Capilla de la Dolorosa with its gilded wooden altar.
Plaza
Plaza de la PatriaThis square is where Fidel Castro gave his final, rousing public speech in July 2006 before being taken ill and stepping down as president. The monument to the Cuban greats here features Carlos Manuel de Céspedes, Antonio Maceo, Máximo Gómez, Perucho Figueredo and, subtly placed left of center, Fidel: it's the only monument he appears on in Cuba.
Park
Parque ChapuzónGreenery beckons about a kilometer from Bayamo's center where the Bayamo River has carved a lush belt through the urban grid. Locals come to this blissful spot to water their horses or have a family barbecue. Footpaths and gazebo-shaped stalls selling food and drink embellish the banks but never detract from the all-pervading mood of tranquility.