Shegar Chöde Monastery

Tsang


This small Gelugpa institution, built in 1269, clings like a limpet to the side of Shegar Mountain. A mural by the entrance depicts the monastery at the height of its power, when it had around 800 monks. These days only 45 remain. As you enter the outer complex look for the Everest expedition oxygen tank that is used as the monastery bell.

The monastery originally followed Nyingma, Sakya, Gelug and Kagyu tradition until the fifth Dalai Lama enforced the Gelugpa doctrine. A chörten in the main assembly hall enshrines the heart, eyes and tongue of a former abbot, while the inner chapel houses a huge Jowo Sakyamuni statue, a kora path and relics that include the monastery founder's hat and a stone conch.


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Shegar is dominated by its 'crystal fort' (the word 'Shegar' means 'crystal' in Tibetan), one of Tibet's most fantastical, whose crumbling defensive walls…