At the foot of the hill Parma Ri, close to Beijing Zhonglu, is one of Lhasa’s four former royal temples. The ling (royal) temples were established by the fifth Dalai Lama, and it was from one of them that regents of Tibet were generally appointed. Only a couple of restored chapels are open, but it’s a friendly place with around 60 monks and worth a visit. Upstairs is a 1938 photo of the original Kunde Ling, 80% of which has been destroyed.
Pilgrims come for a water blessing, and there's normally debating between 2pm and 4pm. There's a fine teahouse in the alley leading to the monastery.