The karst hills of the Wanfenglin Scenic Area raise up like the knobbly back of a sleeping dragon, surrounded by charming villages, carefully tended rice paddies and winding rivers lined with banana trees. In February and March, golden rape flowers carpet the floor between the peaks, while in summer purple azalea flowers punctuate the endless green. Highlights include the riverside Upper and Lower Nahui villages, inhabited by people of the Buyi ethnic minority, and the spectacular Wanfo Temple built into a karst hillside.
Even though there is, in theory, an entrance fee (¥80), this wasn't enforced during our visit. There is also a shuttle bus (¥50) that whisks visitors around key areas of interest, including a spectacular viewpoint across the area. The absolute best way to experience Wanfenglin, however, is under your own steam – it's easy to hire an electric scooter (¥50 per day) or bike (¥15 per day) for a couple of days of glorious independent exploration, a rarity in Chinese scenic areas.