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Brunei Darussalam

The tiny sultanate of Brunei is a remnant of a naval empire that once controlled all of Borneo and part of the present-day Philippines. Nevertheless this quiet darussalam (Arabic for 'abode of peace') has the largest oilfields in Southeast Asia (though they're due to run dry in 30 years).

Look beneath the surface of this tightly regulated sultanate and you'll see the wisely conserved wildness of its natural environment, thanks in part to the money generated by the oilfields. Old-growth, primary forest abounds, especially in verdant Ulu Temburong National Park.

However, the introduction of a strict interpretation of sharia law in April 2019 has prompted global criticism and concern. Under the new legislation, adultery and homosexual acts are punishable by death by stoning, and theft is punishable by the amputation of limbs. As the world struggles to come to terms with Brunei's new direction, the future of tourism is uncertain.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Brunei Darussalam.

  • See

    Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque

    Named after the 28th Sultan of Brunei (the late father of the current sultan), Masjid Omar Ali Saifuddien is surrounded by an artificial lagoon that serves as a reflecting pool, mirroring its gleaming golden domes. This being Brunei, the interior is almost as lavish as the exterior: the floor and walls are made from the finest Italian marble, the chandeliers were crafted in England and a 3.5-million-piece glass mosaic overlaying real gold leaf covers the main dome.

  • See

    Jame'Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque

    Built in 1992 to celebrate the 25th year of the current sultan's reign, Brunei's largest mosque dominates its surroundings. It's impossible to miss the gleaming domes and four terrazzo-tiled minarets as you head towards Gadong. It's certainly an impressive building – since the sultan is his dynasty's 29th ruler, the complex is adorned with 29 golden domes. At night the mosque is lit up like a gold flame.

  • See

    Malay Technology Museum

    This absorbing museum focuses on the traditional lifestyle and artisanship of Brunei's ethnic groups, using re-creations of tribal villages from across the country.

  • See

    Kampong Ayer

    Home to around 30,000 people, Kampong Ayer consists of 42 contiguous stilt villages built along both banks of the Sungai Brunei (Brunei River). A century ago, half of Brunei's Malay population lived here, but life is changing along the river, and many old wooden homes are falling into decay, while smart new, government-built stilt homes are appearing on concrete plinths among the wooden boardwalks. Flag down a water taxi (B$1) and explore for a taste of what Brunei was like before oil changed its fortunes.

  • See

    Istana Nurul Iman

    The sultan's official residence, the world's largest residential palace, is more than four times the size of the Palace of Versailles. It has 1788 rooms, air-conditioned stables for the sultan's polo ponies, gold door handles and 257 bathrooms. The palace is open to the public only during the three-day Hari Raya Aidil Fitri festivities at the end of Ramadan. The best way to check it out on the other 362 days of the year is to take a water-taxi cruise.

  • See

    Royal Regalia Museum

    When called upon to present a gift to the sultan of Brunei, you must inevitably confront the question: what do you give a man who has everything? At this entertaining, dome-capped museum you'll see how heads of state have solved this conundrum. Offerings range from portraits of the sultan executed in semiprecious stones, to gold models of oil wells and a solid silver model of Angkor Wat.

  • See

    Brunei Museum

    Brunei's interesting national museum has an Islamic art gallery, exhibits depicting Brunei's role in Southeast Asian history from the arrival of the Spanish and Portuguese in the 16th century to the modern day, and a natural-history gallery. It is situated 4.5km east of central BSB at Kota Batu. At the time of research the museum was closed for ongoing renovations.

  • See

    Labi Longhouses

    Labi is a small Iban settlement about 40km south of the coastal road with four longhouses: Rampayoh, Mendaram Besar, Mendaram Kecil and, at the end of the track, Teraja. How much of a longhouse you are able to see if you go without a guide will depend on whether there's an English speaker there to show you around. The cost of such a tour might be B$3 per person. To visit Teraja longhouse, register at the police station nearby.

  • See

    Brunei Darussalam Maritime Museum

    The skeleton of a 15th-century Chinese sailing ship, lined with ceramic vessels, greets you as you step into the main hall inside this gleaming building at Kota Batu, 5km east of the city centre. On display are some of the 13,261 artefacts excavated from the country's most important shipwreck, discovered by divers in 1997.