Dominating the town, Namur's mighty fortress covers a whole hilltop with ramparts, tunnels and grey walls. What you see now is more 19th and 20th century than medieval, but is still compelling, great for strolling and offers terrific views. The best are from a section known as Château des Comtes and the café Le Panorama, by the curious art deco sportsground Stade des Jeux. Most open areas, including the rampart footpaths, are accessible at any time. Be careful not to get caught in the Terra Nova zone, whose main gates lock at 6.30pm. Citadel access for pedestrians is on the steep sloping Rampe Verte from Rue des Moulins or via a stairway from Place St-Hilaire. By car use Rte Merveilleuse from behind the 1911 casino building. Six shuttles (€2) run between the train station and Terra Nova on weekends. Alternatively take bus 3 (hourly) to the Château de Namur and stroll downhill from there.