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At a young age, photographer Christina Nwabugo learned that “earth is the base of all flavor.” Raised in a Nigerian-British household, she considered food a form of communion for her and her family. “Ingredients weren’t just ingredients, they were inherited knowledge, something sacred passed down.”

Now splitting her time between Lagos and London, Nwabugo feels as though she’s “living between two different heartbeats,” but that their contrasts keep her “balanced creatively.” Both cities are home, and they both carry reminders of the other.

“In London, I’ll stumble on a West African food shop or taste puff-puff from a corner kitchen in Spitalfields, and suddenly I’m back in Lagos traffic with music blaring from the radio. In Lagos, I might walk into a thoughtfully designed restaurant or gallery that feels just as contemporary and curated as something I’d find in East London.”

There’s an ever-growing presence of diasporic communities within Lagos – and just as the communities are evolving, so is the food. Through these cultural exchanges, “ingredients are shared, recipes are adapted, and palates expand with curiosity.” 

Lonely Planet sent Nwabugo to seven restaurants across Lagos, each one unique in how it contributes to the city’s dynamic food scene. From waterside dining to late-night street bites, there’s an option for every kind of diner. Below, she walks us through her experience at each.

A collage of beautifully composed images from a high-end restaurant, including shots of food, cocktails and an elegant outdoor dining area.
Clockwise from left: Adding the finishing touch to ONA's sticky pudding; Korean wings with labneh, lemongrass oil and dukkah crumb; a selection of signature cocktails; bao buns with spiced goat meat; the outdoor dining area in the backyard.

1. ONA 

“Chef Obehi Ekhomu is a quiet force. She’s rooted in her Beninese identity and approaches food as both art and emotion. Every dish is layered with memory and care. Her bao buns filled with spiced goat meat were honestly unforgettable. The atmosphere – dim lighting, soft drapery and calming interior details – makes you feel like you’re being held while you eat. She reminds us that food can be powerful and soft at the same time.“
A collage of photographs from an elegant Middle Eastern restaurant with a beautiful poolside setting.
Clockwise from top left: Setting the table at Salma’s waterside dining area; a full table with batata harra, special hummus, pita bread and two cocktails; the view of the pool and bar at the restaurant; Salma's fattoush salad, which comes with a hard pita shell on top; digging into Salma’s sandwich platter and hummus.

2. Salma’s Authentic Lebanese Cuisine 

“Set above the lagoon, with swaying palms and calm waters, Salma’s delivers Lebanese cuisine served with warmth and care. The space is serene, the dishes are vibrant, and there’s a harmony between Nigerian hospitality and Mediterranean richness. It’s a place that’s beautiful to photograph and easy to return to.“

A collage of details from a chic cafe, including sandwiches on a plate, a chef working behind a counter and the all-white dining area.
Clockwise from left: Gather House's roasted veggie sandwich on Ambasha bread, protein bowl, and iced matcha; slicing a loaf banana cake, made with carrots and chocolate chips; sign detail on the cafe’s counter space; a team member prepares the roasted-veggie sandwich; the seating area within the cafe, where you can also shop for merchandise.

3. The Gather House

“Founded by the incredible Akudo Iheakanwa of Shekudo and her co-founder Maxine LP, The Gather House is more than just a concept cafe. It’s a concept store where cafe culture meets fashion, design, and community. The food is playful and fresh, and you can shop vibrant garments while sipping on African-roasted coffee. It feels distinctly Nigerian – not because it's traditional, but because it confidently redefines what modern Nigerian lifestyle looks like.”

A collage of details from a restaurant that celebrates Nigerian culture in a refined setting, including dishes of traditional stew on banana leaves, table settings, and women dancing.
Clockwise from top left: A close up of Ìlè Ìyàn's egusi stew; in addition to table service, diners can enjoy traditional floor seating; a member of the Ìlè Ìyàn team unwraps the pounded yam, served with egusi stew; a close-up of the pounded yam and egusi; moment of joy and celebration as a group of women dance in their matching iro ati bubas.

4. Ìlè Ìyàn

“This one moved me. From the staff dressed in iro ati bubas (wrap skirts and voluminous blouses), to the Yoruba greetings at the door ‘Èkààbọ̀ sí Ìlè Ìyàn,’ to the rooms named in Yoruba and the history on the walls, Ìlè Ìyàn is not only a restaurant: it’s a cultural archive. They only serve pounded yam, which feels radical in a city where burgers and fries are trendy. You can’t talk about Lagos food without yam. It’s the root. The foundation.”
A collage of scenes from a dimly lit, stylish steakhouse, including a steak covered in gold leaf.
Clockwise from left: Khodor Alreani, also known as Chef Flamin Spur, puts on a show at each table; Black Pepper’s Tomahawk steak, which comes coated in gold leaf; a selection of signature cocktails; as part of his show, Chef Flamin Spur cuts and serves the gold-leaf tomahawk; appetizers of shrimp cups and jollof beef rolls.

5. Black Pepper Steakhouse 

“If you love drama and decadence, Black Pepper is your place. Gold-leaf beef, fire-blazing meat cuts and full-on performance from Chef Flamin Spur (Khodor Alreani), who is clearly doing what he loves. There’s an owanbé energy here – celebratory, unapologetically full. It’s not just dinner, it’s a show.”

A collage of details of a chef preparing and plating a fish dish in a restaurant.
Clockwise from top left: Looking over the chef’s shoulder as he preps a salad; preparing to put freshly cooked snapper onto the plate; Bodega Emporium’s bell pepper snapper, accompanied by a salad and rice; prepping the dressing for the salad; delicately placing the garnishes on the bell pepper snapper.

6. The Bodega Emporium

“This spot celebrates freshness and presentation. The Bodega Emporium’s dishes feel like an elevated take on Nigerian flavors – modern, balanced and beautifully plated. It’s a great place to experience how local ingredients can evolve into fine dining.”

A collage of details of chefs in a restaurant kitchen grilling and preparing meat skewers.
Clockwise from left: Suya, a grilled meat kebab and popular Nigerian street food, is the perfect late-night meal; chicken laid out on Norma’s grill as a cook adds oil; a close-up of the seasoned, skewered and cooked meat; the meat, wrapped tightly in tinfoil, cooks on the grill; a cook takes the cooked meat off of the skewers.

7. Norma 

“Let’s be honest: you cannot be in Lagos and not eat suya. Norma has taken that roadside staple and given it structure without losing the essence. It’s branded, yes, but still deeply nostalgic.”

All photographs by Christina Nwabugo.