A guide to Le Marais, one of Paris' most fashionable neighborhoods

Walking through Paris' Le Marais neighborhood is an act of cultural archaeology; the streets are palimpsests revealing layers of the city’s histories from the draining of Le Marais’ eponymous swamps to its current glamour. Today it is a home to fashion devotees, the LGBTIQ+ community, the remnants of the Jewish community, and history and art lovers alike. The bustle of weekend foot traffic is a lively mix of people flowing between the manicured lawns of the place des Vosges and falafel-filled streets of rue des Rosiers. 

Getting there and around

Le Marais, with its winding medieval streets, is not very well connected to modern inventions like the metro, so expect to do some walking.  

Metro

Saint-Paul is the best station to arrive near the heart of Le Marais, but Arts et Métiers and Place de la République offer alternative entry points into this warren of streets. If arriving from Charles de Gaulle airport, take the RER B train to Chatelet followed by Metro line 1 to Saint-Paul. From Orly, the metro line 15 to Maison Blanche and then line 7 to Sully-Moreland takes just under 40 minutes with a little walking at the end.

Bike

Use two wheels to speed into Le Marais along rue Rivoli, but be aware that it gets crowded and pedestrians often meander along both the roads and pavements within the neighborhood. 

On foot

The most enjoyable way to explore this densely packed neighborhood is on two feet. Take your time admiring the facades, exploring the side alleys, drooling over luxurious window displays, and spotting street art. 

Where to stay

Le Marais is a more expensive neighborhood to stay in, which means a wealth of luxurious options to choose from, but a struggle to find much under €100 (US$115) per night. If you wish to sleep in Le Marais, be sure to book early and avoid peak annual events like Paris Fashion Week. 

Save

The most wallet-friendly option in the most beautiful setting is MIJE Fourcy auberge de jeunesse (youth hostel), housed in a 17th-century hôtel particulier (private mansion). The rooms are basic, but clean, and include a simple breakfast à la Français. Book directly on the website for the best price.

Spend

From the cozy ground-floor coffee shop to the relaxing lounge boasting over 1000 vinyls waiting to be played, you will hardly want to leave Hotel Sookie. Sustainability is at the heart of this hotel, with minibars and bathrooms filled with delicious organic nibbles and Terre de Mars cosmetics.

Spend more

The entrance of the Hôtel du Petit Moulin is almost concealed by its historically protected boulangerie (bakery) facade, but once inside you’ll find yourself absorbed into an entirely modern world of luxurious design created by Christian Lacroix, fashion and shoe designer extraordinaire. Enjoy the individuality of each designed room before heading over to relax at the Pavilion de la Reine spa.

Where to get coffee

There is no shortage of coffee shops in Le Marais, but some are truly exceptional. Stepping into the minimalist linear space of Artesano, you are greeted by gentle music, striking black-and-white photographs, the roaster and owner, Arturo Valentino, and the smell of freshly roasted Mexican coffee. Linger for the art and the perfect suntrap terrasse (terrace). If you want a place to transition from afternoon to evening, Causeries is a charming coffee shop and natural wine bar. Look for the viridescent facade with its classically seriffed CAFE THE sign, then settle in around a marble-topped tabouret with a drink and some nibbles.

Where to eat

Like its patchwork history, there is a dynamic mix of eateries to choose from in Le Marais. For quick bites with an Asian influence try the warming homemade Japanese curries from Pontochoux or join the lines for cloud-like sandwiches from Carré Pain de Mie – in-the-know locals return here for the croque monsieur. 

For more traditional French fare, Bistrot des Tournelles is a neighborhood classic where you’ll find diners of all ages sharing meals of filets de boeuf (beef fillet) and crème brulée. Capitaine is a tucked-away modern bistro with seasonal, Breton-influenced dishes, or you can enjoy a crépe on the sun-soaked lunchtime terrasse at Brutus.

In Paris, breakfast is often best from a boulangerie and in Le Marais Moon Croissant specialize in their namesake viennoiserie (sweet baked goods) with a variety of fillings. An even more decadent selection can be found at Brigat’ and Yann Couvreur. These patissieries are also in perfect locations; buy a tiramisu treat in Brigat’ to savor in Place des Vosges or a Yann Couvreur mille-feuille to nibble along rue des Rosiers. If you prefer a more substantial start to the day, Keili offers a fresh vegetarian menu in a light cafe.

What to do

You are spoilt for choice in Le Marais, particularly if you enjoy a museum. Some of the more unusual ones include the Musée de la Chasse et Nature, exploring humankind's relationship with animals through the lens of hunting and Maison Victor Hugo, the writer’s former residence near the place des Vosges.

Le Marais is also filled with street art, including works by internationally renowned street artist Invader, who installed a number of his famous mosaic creations around this neighborhood. Download his app, Flash Invaders, and start looking up. When you spot one, "flash" it with the app to check its authenticity.

To delve deeper into the history of this neighborhood head to Maison d'Ourscamp, this association works to preserve Paris’ history and has its own medieval cellar to tour. On the same street, rue Francis Miron, you’ll find some of the oldest houses in Paris at numbers 11 and 13. If you’re hungry for more history, walk towards the courtyards of the Village Saint Paul stopping at the Hôtel de Sens and be sure to admire Phillipe-Auguste’s 12th-century wall looming over the basketball courts filled with bouncing teens on rue des Jardins Saint-Paul. 

Where to shop 

Fragrance lovers will find a concentration of boutiques perfuming the air along rue des Francs Bourgeois. There are classics of French perfumery, such as Frédéric Malle and Fragonard. If you have a 100ml liquids limit, the richly scented Diptyque candles are an evocative souvenir. 

If fashion is your raison d’être, Le Marais gives you a chance to choose between expertly curated vintage at a range of price points and collections of luxury boutiques. You’ll find mid-price luxury at Système Solère, high end at THE ROOM, and can rummage for bargain treasures to a techno soundtrack at FREE'P'STAR. A stroll along rue Vieille du Temple will give you a chance to explore French girl favorites Maje, A.P.C and Sandro as well as familiar international brands. Be sure to head down a few side streets as you explore to find charming independent boutiques like Une Fille aux Cheveux Noirs, stocked with Asian-inspired fashion and art.

My favorite thing to do in Le Marais neighborhood

I particularly enjoy Le Marais before the crowds arrive, so I start my morning with a coffee at Le Peloton. Not only does it open early and offer bike rental, but it also makes a delicious flat white. From there I step across the street to rifle through the drawers in Calligrane and buy one of its beautiful paper objects or some stationery. I never get tired of seeing the beautiful ironwork signs in the entryway of the Musée Carnavalet before going to people watch or read outside Le Saint-Gervais or Le Progrès. I like to while away a Marais evening in either Le Barav, for cheap glasses of wine with a buzzing crush of younger locals smoking, flirting and drinking inside and out, or Delicatessen Place, to share small market-fresh plates of food by candlelight and sip wine offered by recommendation only. 

What to know

To immerse yourself in Le Marais LGBTIQ+ establishments, explore the area around square Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie. Try phallic pastries at Legay Choc, and head to nightclubs like Le Raidd and Elles, a lesbian bar.

What to pre-book

As with everywhere in Paris, it is wise to book your accommodations early and make reservations at restaurants you do not want to miss. Booking tickets for museums and exhibitions also helps avoid lines and disappointment in this city of aesthetes.

When to visit

Paris Fashion Week in June is either the moment you want to be there or avoid at all costs; the neighborhood is flooded with elegantly over-dressed attendees, models and entourages all pushing prices up for accommodations and overflowing restaurants and bars. As the LGBTIQ+ hub of the city, Le Marais is also particularly vibrant during the Marche de Fiertés, Paris’ gay pride parade, also in June.