Village Vanguard, a popular jazz bar in the West Village. Brester Irina/Shutterstock
Yes, it really is as pretty as it looks in the movies.
Perhaps New York City’s most photographed neighborhood, the West Village is a vibrant tableau of old trees, cobblestone streets, brownstones and fascinating people. And while it’s now one of the most expensive neighborhoods anywhere – and though the newest wave of young people to embrace it is far from…bohemian – it’s not hard to discover a rich history, an artistic, free-thinking spirit and traces of a grittier past among all the Insta-worthy charm.
Getting to and around the West Village
As just about everywhere in New York, the best way to get to the West Village is by subway. Streets of brownstone bliss are just a few minutes’ walk from 14th St stations of the A/C/E/L or the 1/2/3 trains. The West 4th St–Washington Sq station is a hub for both the A/C/E and the B/D/F/M lines.
Once you’re in the area, count on wearing out your shoes, as walking through (and getting lost in) the West Village’s unique, unnumbered grid of streets is a rite of passage. Which is fine: there’s hardly an ugly patch in the neighborhood.
Where to stay in the West Village
The West Village lies within the city’s largest historic district, which is why it’s remained so picture-perfect. Yet historic-preservation mandates combined with a red-hot real estate market means there are very few hotels within the West Village proper.
Save: You won’t find spacious rooms or even private bathrooms at the Jane Hotel, but this historic property has its appeal – and a primo riverside location. (Not-so-fun fact: the few survivors of the HMS Titanic stayed here after their rescue and arrival at Pier 54, now the site of Little Island, just across the way.)
Spend: Cattycorner from the greenery and colorful characters of Washington Square Park, the landmark 152-room Washington Square Hotel has been welcoming visitors to the heart of Greenwich Village since 1902.
Spend More: Once a boardinghouse favored by creative types (Jack Kerouac, Maggie Smith and Mickey Rourke all stayed here), The Marlton on W 8th St received a deluxe makeover a few years ago, and today brims with chic boutique amenities as well as period details.
Where to get coffee in the West Village
Joe Coffee: Weathered wood floors, outdoor seating and friendly, latte art-proficient staff: the original location of this NYC mini-chain remains the platonic ideal of a neighborhood coffee shop.
Porto Rico Importing Company: This spot has been in the coffee business since 1907; the aroma from hundreds of burlap bags stuffed with fresh-roasted coffee beans is wonderfully overwhelming. You can get to-go cups as well; the cold brew is a cult favorite.
11th Street Cafe: On a leafy side street, this appealing neighborhood spot serves a full range of specialty hot drinks, as well as delicious sandwiches.
Where to eat in the West Village
Breakfast
Bonsignour: This small cafe with a huge menu does breakfast sandwiches right. Order ham, egg and cheese on a ciabatta, grab a seat on the sidewalk benches outside and strike up a conversation with a neighbor.
Apollo Bagel: Perfectly executed bagels in select flavors, plus toppings like whitefish and lox, make up the simple formula at this viral sensation.
Breakfast by Salt’s Cure: People queue up for good reason at this breakfast-only spot, where the signature oatmeal griddle cakes are a gooey delight.
Lunch
Taïm: The pita stuffed with crispy falafel and toppings like peppers, babaganoush, tabouleh and others is a thing of beauty. They’re to-go only; eat yours on a bench at the nearby Stonewall National Monument.
Cafe Cluny: A neighborhood-favorite French bistro that’s both homey and elevated. Cafe tables line the sidewalks outside; cozy banquettes beckon in the dining room.
Joe’s Pizza: Opt for a plain cheese slice at this mainstay’s original Carmine St location. It might be the city’s best.
Aperitivo
Bar Pisellino: Take a seat at an outdoor table, order a Negroni or Aperol spritz, and watch the world go by.
WXOU Radio Bar: You’ll find a lively crowd of regulars at this no-frills, cash-only, Red Bull-free bar.
Dinner
The West Village might have more restaurants per capita than any other neighborhood in the USA. Several of them have become social media sensations, but good luck getting a table at the likes of Via Carota, Don Angie, Semma, 4 Charles Prime Rib, L’Artusi… The standbys below always deliver – without the need to queue up at 4:30pm for the (rare) chance of scoring a canceled reservation.
Malaparte: Superb pizzas, fresh-grilled fish and rustic Italian fare in an airy yet warm dining room.
Corner Bistro: While this divey joint’s prices now match the market, its burger remains one of the city’s all-time best.
Tartine: Simple, bistro-style dishes and plate glass windows opening onto one of the area’s most picturesque corners make this the quintessential neighborhood spot.
Where to shop in the West Village
Cursive: It’s hard to leave this carefully curated shop of homewares, stationery, gifts and other gorgeous things without a purchase for someone special (even if that’s yourself).
Myers of Keswick: Seemingly airlifted in from a Hertfordshire high street, this is where British New Yorkers and local Anglophiles seek out their Weetabix, Heinz Beanz, Cadbury Creme Eggs and other…delicacies from the UK.
Casa Magazines: The golden age of magazines lives on at this temple to the printed periodical. If you need the latest edition of Vogue Taiwan, you’ll find it here.
Housing Works Thrift Shop: In a neighborhood famous for its fashionable residents, you’ll find new pieces every day at this nicely merchandised charity shop, where proceeds benefit a most worthy cause.
Three Lives & Company: Expert staff and a superb selection of fiction and nonfiction make this the perfect neighborhood bookstore.
Where to spend a night out in the West Village
Employees Only: The bar that kicked off the haute-mixology craze 20 years ago is still going strong. Superb cocktails, a speakeasy vibe and an in-house tarot reader set this place apart.
Marie’s Crisis: At this tiny dive of a piano bar, solos are rare, mics are not a thing, and the room comes to life as the packed crowd sings along (sometimes in…questionable harmony). Sheer heaven for show-tune fanatics.
Village Vanguard: Now into its ninth decade, this subterranean boîte draws a lineup of top jazz talent – and brings you close to the West Village’s free-spirited past.
The Spaniard: A perennial favorite of the West Village’s younger, frattier set, with a lively weekend scene.
Best parks and gardens in the West Village
Hudson River Park: This glorious strip of green unfurls along the waterfront and even over the water, on piers where freighters once unloaded cargo.
The Gardens at St Luke’s: Next to the neighborhood’s oldest church, this tidy, serene oasis is a place for reading and silent contemplation.
Jane Street Garden: This tiny corner gem was once a burned-out lot; today, it’s maintained for the public by a group of dedicated neighbors.
Get close to LGBTIQ+ history in the West Village
On the streets of the West Village, the revolution in LGBTIQ+ rights caught fire. In June 1969, patrons at the Stonewall Inn – a Mafia-owned gathering spot for the queer community – stood their ground when the police swooped into the bar on one of the regular raids to round up its “deviant” patrons. Days of riots followed, inspiring activists to organize, openly and loudly, for equal rights from that moment on. Learn about the story in vivid detail at the recently inaugurated Stonewall National Monument Visitor Center, then raise a glass to the brave pioneers of yesterday at today’s Stonewall (in a space next door to the 1969 incarnation).
Well before Stonewall, the forward-thinking activists of the Mattachine Society would meet at Julius’, a neighborhood tavern since 1864, and still a hopping gay dive today. Make a point of visiting The Center, where in the 1980s activists gathered to agitate for a governmental response to the AIDS crisis; today, the community still gathers here for organizing and inspiration.
The post-Stonewall generations continue to sashay at the Christopher St Pier, where alfresco voguing parties draw fierce trans and nonbinary dancers from all over. (Join in – if you dare.) And two of the country’s last true lesbian bars – and surely two of the best – are but blocks from one another in the West Village: pint-size Cubbyhole and raucous Henrietta Hudson. While the ladies rule the roost here, no one is turned away.
On the last Sunday of every June, the West Village and Chelsea’s population swells into the seven figures, as some two million revelers converge for the epic NYC Pride March. The route runs down Fifth Ave, then back up Seventh, making narrow Christopher St and the Stonewall Inn the centerpiece of this passionate and still politically charged event. Expect streets thronged with exuberant revelers clad (often scantily) in all manner of rainbow attire. All are welcome; smiles are free.