A guide to Spain’s Illas Cíes

Vigo, in Spain’s far northwest corner, is remote, wet, green, misty and surrounded by water. It’s perhaps the last place you’d expect to find islands with turquoise waters and white sand beaches. But a 45-minute boat ride away from Vigo’s city center are the Illas Cíes, part of the UNESCO-recognized Parque Nacional Illas Atlánticas. Often cited as an example of sustainable tourism and the home to one of the loveliest beaches in the world, the Illas Cíes draw sun-seeking day-trippers and serious bird-watchers. Gulls, cormorants, terns, petrels, shearwaters, auks and gannets live on the island year-round.

Although the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage pulls hundreds of thousands of international visitors to Galicia every year, few make it to other parts of the region. If a chance to get off the beaten track and explore a little-visited city or Galician food and wine aren’t sufficient draws, the Illas Cíes offer nature, active pursuits, fresh air, water and, if you luck into good weather, a bit of tropicality in an otherwise rainy corner of the world.

The islands can be approached as an easy day trip from Vigo or on an overnight stay during the summer season (May 15 to September 15) and Semana Santa (Holy Week, the week before Easter). Either way, as a protected area, the Illas Cíes are subject to several rules: visitors must request permission to visit in advance; there are no garbage cans on the islands, so anything taken in must be taken out; loud noise is not allowed due to the birds; nothing can be removed from the island; it’s strictly prohibited to feed animals; and the only form of accommodation is a park-sanctioned tent or campsite.

Find out more about what you need to know before you visit the Illas Cíes, including tips on transportation and activities.

Is it easy to get in and around the Illas Cíes?

Getting to the Illas Cíes involves a bit of advance bureaucracy. The islands are part of a larger protected area that limits visitors to 450 people per day during most of the year and 1800 per day during the peak summer season.

It’s necessary to first obtain permission from the Xunta de Galicia, the local government, as early as 90 days in advance. Fill in some basic details on the website, and then you’ll receive the code that is required to purchase boat tickets. Registration is free, and the code is valid for 2 hours. Several companies operate ferries to the islands, including Bahía Sub, Cruceros Rías Baixas, Cruceros do Ulla, Mar de Ons, Nabia and RG Naviera. Most offer daily trips, with more frequent departures during the summer. The ferry to the Illas Cíes takes 45 minutes; some ferries have food and drink service on board.

You can buy tickets online, but if you prefer to visit the offices in person, at least four of the boat companies are based in the building that shares space with Merca Express, next door to the pier (the same building where commuter ferry tickets are sold). Staff there can help you get a code and buy tickets, or you can simply pop in to see the departure times.

The Illas Cíes can also be approached on a boat trip via a sustainably minded, approved private provider, such as Bluscus. Get some friends together, charter a boat, and you’ll have the freedom to swim offshore across from otherwise inaccessible areas. Private charters are the only way to visit the third and southernmost island in the archipelago, San Martiño.

Two of the islands – Monteagudo Island and Faro Island – are linked by a footbridge.

Where should I stay on the Illas Cíes?

The Illas Cíes can be visited year-round, but staying overnight is only possible during Semana Santa and summer. Tents are available to rent, or you can book a plot and pitch your own. During certain summer holidays, the campsites can be full, so book ahead, or shoot for a time outside of August if you prefer solitude.

The camping area has a cafeteria and shop, toilets, hot showers (for a fee), electrical outlets and solar-powered air pumps to inflate your mattress.

Top things to do in the Illas Cíes

An information booth not far from the pier on Monteagudo Island can provide details on activities on the islands and also rents kayaks and snorkeling equipment. The weather on the Illas Cíes changes quickly and frequently; it was overcast and chilly when I visited in early April.

Go snorkeling or for a refreshing swim

During the summer months, the Illas Cíes’ white sand beaches and clear waters are the biggest draw. The air temperature can get warm at this time of year, but in this corner of the Atlantic Ocean, the water temperature clocks an average of 14°C (57°F), making a swim refreshing to say the least.

The obvious beach destination for most visitors is Praia de Rodas, a short walk from the pier on Monteagudo Island and the longest stretch of sand on the island. It's a great place to snorkel for a glimpse of octopus, mussels, crabs, lobsters, spider crabs, barnacles and multitudes of fish, including sole and mackerel. It can be hugely popular during the peak of summer, so if you prefer something a bit more intimate, head to the southern end of Faro Island, where Praia de Nosa Señora is located in a more secluded, picturesque rocky cove overlooked by a church. Even more concealed, Praia das Figueiras is a brief walk from the pier.

Follow the islands' hiking routes

The islands have four clear, well-maintained, relatively easy walking routes. Virtually obligatory is the 3.5km walk to Faro de Cíes, the lighthouse located on Faro Island’s highest point, on its southwestern corner. The route is uphill but not too challenging. Around 1km from the lighthouse on the ascent, you’ll turn a corner and see the final backtracking path to the lighthouse, intimidatingly perched on top of the mountain like a castle.

From the top, there are amazing views of a deep bay – a stark contrast to the white sand beaches you walked past – as well as dizzying panoramas over the switchbacks of the trail and neighboring San Martiño Island. If you’re visiting on a day trip, don’t miss it. A worthwhile side trip along this route is to Faro de Porto. The lighthouse here feels a bit more remote and, although much lower, is perched at the edge of an impressive cliff.

In the opposite direction, a 2.5km trail leads to Faro do Peito, a lighthouse on the island’s less-visited northern shore, or 1.7km west to the clifftop viewpoint at Alto do Príncipe.

What should I eat on the Illas Cíes?

The Illas Cíes are part of a protected area, and there’s an effort to leave as small a footprint as possible. But this is Spain after all, so food and drink are a priority.

At the pier, Restaurante Rodas is a contemporary cafe with food and drinks at moderate prices; enjoy a café con leche or a chilled glass of albariño while you wait for your boat.

A brief walk south from the pier, the island’s campground has a large cafeteria. The menu includes options such as octopus, reminding you that this is not your average summer camp canteen. There’s also a small grocery store, and campers have access to tables, microwave ovens, power outlets – just about everything one would need to self-cater.

If you’re on a day trip, bringing food with you is a great idea. Hit a branch of Gadis (a regional supermarket chain in Galicia with lots of local items) in Vigo, and buy some queixo tetilla (a Galician cheese in the shape of a breast), empanadas (the local style is stuffed with seafood), bread, sausages and maybe a bottle of wine, then have a Spanish-style picnic at one of the many granite picnic tables located near the paths or on a blanket spread on the sand.