Two cities, one trip: 5 days in Lisbon and Porto

I recently returned from a balmy spring trip to Portugal. This country has been on my ‘I need to go list’ for roughly three years, and this year, I officially reached a point where I could no longer deny myself. 

Although this is a quick five-day adventure, Portugal is a country you could easily spend two weeks in, exploring the dramatic Algarve, the mountain towns of Monsanto and Sintra and the various wine regions. But alas, I only had five days, so I went to the stars: Lisbon and Porto.

Joined by my longtime friend, Hannah, we spent our days strolling the winding cobblestone streets, eating iconic Portuguese dishes like francesinha, and sipping vinho verde almost everywhere we went. 

• When to arrive: We arrived on a Friday. I wanted to experience some of Lisbon's nightlife while also savoring the quieter weekdays. 

• How to get from the airport: Rideshare options, such as Bolt and Uber, are readily available and affordable compared to other major cities. Lisbon also has very good public transit, which can get you close to wherever you hope to go. The primary thing to note is that carrying your luggage up the hills on the narrow streets can be exhausting and sometimes treacherous, so it is best to look into the location of your accommodation and then choose what works best for you. 

• Getting around town: I found that Lisbon and Porto look much bigger on a map than they feel. You can get around on foot relatively easily, but the trams, buses and subway are there when traveling a farther distance. 

• Where to stay: During our visit, we were hosted by the SLH hotels and had a chance to stay at The Lumiares Hotel and The Vintage in Lisbon, as well as The Rebello in Porto. All were absolutely fantastic, with attentive service and stunning designs that combined their respective cities' signature look with modern accents. The Lumiares is a tad more affordable than the Vintage Hotel. 

• What to pack: Walking shoes with good traction. In Lisbon, the streets can be incredibly slippery when it rains. Style-wise, most people dress casually but still have a put-together look. 

Day 1

Afternoon: I touched down in Lisbon and headed straight for the Lumiares Hotel. I opted to take a Bolt car from the airport as it was affordable, I had luggage, and the hotel is on a steep hill. Once we checked in, Hannah and I headed across the street to Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara. 

One of Lisbon's staples is the scattering of miradouros, or lookouts, throughout the city. Due to the famous winding hills, you’ll find sweeping views around every corner. 

The miradouro was lively, filled with stalls selling grab-and-go meals and drinks. We grabbed an Aperol spritz from one of the booths and reveled in the atmosphere with the other visitors, while a guitarist serenaded the park. 

Afterward, we wanted to explore a bit and get our bearings in this new city. We walked over to Livraria Bertrand in the neighborhood of Chiado to take a look at the world's oldest operating bookstore. We also popped into A Vida Portuguesa, a nearby home goods store with knick-knacks, cosmetics and local goods.

We returned to the hotel to prepare for dinner and an evening in the crowded streets of Bairro Alto.

Evening: Our night began with dinner at Tasca da tia Macheta, a lowlit Portuguese restaurant with live Fado Music, a genre of Portuguese music that originated in Lisbon. We snacked on cheese, bread, and chorizo while the gloomy, soulful notes and vibrato of the singer filled the room. Our dinner of salted cod and a roast pork shank rounded out the meal. I must note that the salted cod was traditionally made, which requires drying and salting the fish to preserve it. I personally could not handle the saltiness, but it's always worth trying.

After dark: Following dinner, we walked over to the nearby sit-down bar Majong for cocktails to kill some time before taking in the nightlife. Lisbon, like many European cities, enjoys going out late. Expect bars to start getting busy around 10 a.m. and clubs to fill up around 12 a.m.- 1 a.m. 

Bairro Alto, a relatively sleepy neighborhood in the daytime, becomes raucous and overflowing with people after sunset. While these streets typically hit rowdy levels in peak season, even in April, there are hordes of people spilling out of the bars, drinking in the streets, and smoking. We spent the rest of our night at Purex Clube, a dancey LGBTQI+ bar with cheap drinks and a great DJ.

Day 2

Morning: After our late night, we slept in, before walking down the hill to the famous bakery Manteigaria, located next to Praça Luís de Camões, for pastel de nata and espresso. The narrow shop is lined with a standing counter, where we sipped our coffee while sprinkling cinnamon and powdered sugar on our custard treats. Behind the counter, pastry chefs continue to churn out more of these bite-sized delights. 

After our light breakfast, we headed to the Praça to catch the 28 Tram. The line for the tram was long, so expect very significant waits in the summer months. Once we boarded, we rode as close as possible to Castelo de São Jorge, the ancient castle overlooking the city. 

We hopped off the tram at Miradouro Sta. Luzia, which provides panoramic views of the water, before walking 10 minutes up the hill to the castle. Along the way, we popped into Miss Can, a tapas spot that also sells tinned fish. I bought tuna filets in a spicy oil to take home before finishing our journey to the castle. 

Castelo de São Jorge is reminiscent of childhood make-believe, come to life. As you wander through the castle courtyard and along the top of the castle walls, you can picture the many centuries of occupants whose footsteps you are walking in. Not to mention, the views of the city are captivating, and as you explore the grounds, you’ll find peacocks squawking and showing their feathers. Make sure to visit the museum that explores the history of the castle and the various establishments that controlled it. 

Afternoon: After the castle, we walked over to Feira da Ladra, a flea market in Alfama. Before shopping, we grabbed lunch from Focaccia in Giro, where we both had tuna sandwiches on lightly toasted rosemary focaccia. This is a gem in a bustling area filled with tourist-trap restaurants. 

After lunch, we explored the market, which is only open on Tuesdays and Saturdays. The stalls range from vintage cameras and homemade leather shoes to kitschy souvenirs and vintage clothing. You could dig for hours here for your next great find. Personally, I loved checking out the handmade jewelry by local artists.

We continued our shopping adventure by catching the 28 Tram to Baixa, where we browsed at A Outra Face da Lua and Humana Vintage. I exercised extreme will and managed to hold myself back from purchasing anything, but there are a bunch of goodies at both that I still think about. 

20,000 steps later, we went back to the hotel for a siesta hour. 

Evening: Before dinner, we decided to enjoy the warm evening and popped into the Lumi Rooftop Bar & Restaurant at our hotel. It has a dreamy atmosphere with specialty drinks, romantic lighting, and beautiful views. We enjoyed dirty martinis, chicken wings with smokey mayo, and oxtail croquettes. It was the perfect kickoff to our evening. 

For dinner, we walked to the nearby Michelin-starred restaurant Tapisco, which accommodated us even without a reservation. The space is exceptionally well designed with painted tiled walls, cured pork hanging from the ceiling, and a buzzing energy. 

We tried the bread with tomato and jamón Ibérico de Bellota (we loved this), garlic prawns and duck rice with sausage. This meal was upscale yet hearty, blending Portuguese and Spanish cuisine. 

After dark: We decided to walk off our meal, and spent the rest of our evening wandering around the city, stopping at bars that caught our eye. We ended our night at M’arrecreo Pizzeria, which was bustling around midnight when we stopped in. 

Day 3

Morning: Today, we leave Lisbon behind for the city of Porto. We began by diving headfirst in the complimentary breakfast at The Lumiares, full of fresh fruit, scrambled eggs, cured meats and a steaming Americano. After breakfast, we walked to the metro, which goes directly to the Santa Appolonia train station. From there, we boarded our train to Porto. The three-hour journey through the Portuguese countryside was a relaxing ride. 

Afternoon: We arrived at the Vila Nova de Gaia station, located in the town of Gaia, which is on the other side of the Douro River, looking directly at the city. We walked to our nearby hotel, The Rebello. The hotel is located in what was once a pot and pan factory, and it has managed to blend the old-world aesthetic with modern design seamlessly. The view of the city and the famous Ponte de Dom Luis I bridge from our room was unlike anything I’ve seen. 

After dropping our stuff, we walked over to the nearby World of Wine. This cultural district is housed in repurposed Port Wine Warehouses and is home to numerous museums, restaurants, wine classes and interactive exhibits. We visited the Wine Experience, a museum that provides an in-depth lesson on the process of winemaking, introduces you to the wine-producing regions within Portugal and teaches you how the changing landscapes impact the flavor profiles of the wine. 

After our museum experience, we went to a port wine tasting at The Wine School. Here, we sampled three different types of ports, savoring the unique sweetness of each variation. 

Evening: Once we had been properly introduced to Port, we walked over to one of the restaurants on-site, Golden Catch, for some seafood. We began with oysters and cod croquets before splitting the lemony Sea Bass and a juicy steak. 

On our walk back to our hotel, we grabbed some gelato and enjoyed an early night after a day of traveling.

Day 4

Morning: Today began as yesterday, with breakfast at the hotel, as The Rebello is also home to a phenomenal spread. 

After breakfast, we rode the gondola, which takes you from the riverbank on the Gaia side to the top of the Ponte de Dom Luis I. From there, we crossed the bridge on foot, enjoying the spectacular view. 

Afternoon: Once we had made it into Porto proper, we began a day of wandering, stopping first at the Porto Cathedral. From there, we walked the narrow streets, stumbling across a bustling Praça with live music, where we grabbed an outdoor seat at Flôr and enjoyed an espresso and bellini. 

We continued on to the Portuguese Center of Photography, a free gallery that displays local Portuguese art. Once the main prison in Porto, the gallery explores the history of cameras and the influence of photography in the judicial system while showcasing various artists' work. I was particularly fond of the Bárbara Morais exhibit.

We continued on our gallery journey when we stumbled across Edifício Abel Salazar, a cultural center also with free entry. This was home to tons of local contemporary art, ranging from photography to paintings.

By this point, we were starving and decided to try some Porto dishes for lunch. We walked over to Cervejaria Gazela, a casual lunch spot known for its hot dogs, which we, of course, got. We also tried the Franhescia, a sandwich layered with steak, two types of ham, copious amounts of cheese, smothered in a beer-based sauce and topped with a fried egg. I was a tad hesitant to try these, but they were fantastic.  

This day was especially warm, and we ran out of steam, so we began our journey back to our hotel. On our walk back, we came across a sports bar, Guindalense Football Club, which has a truly magnificent view of the city. The vibe was relaxed, and lucky for us, devoid of any major sports crowd. We sat outside enjoying a cold beer, the sun, and the view. 

Once we finished our beer, we continued back to the hotel, walking along the lower-level bridge. We took an afternoon break by heading to The Rebello’s pool and sauna, which is a dusky pink oasis for which I could spend an entire day. 

Evening: Following our time at the pool, we ventured back out for a sunset boat ride along the Douro River. Booked through Airbnb, we boarded a sleek and comfortable sailboat for an evening on the water, where the guide taught us the history of Porto while plying us with samples of his favorite Port wines.

For dinner, we enjoyed a filling meal at Pot and Pan, the restaurant in The Rebello. The meal was expansive with bread and olive oil, mackerel cooked with peppers and onion and a chimichurri sauce on top, a heaping chicken caesar salad, and steak. We wrapped the night up with cheesecake. 

Day 5

Morning: It was time to return to Lisbon. We headed out for the train, bright and early, retracing our steps from two days ago, and took the journey back to Lisbon. 

Once in Lisbon, we headed to our final hotel of the trip, The Vintage. This secluded yet accessible hotel is designed to perfection, and I could have moved in immediately. The blend of mid-century modern elements and warm colors makes for an oasis to unwind in the city. The Vintage Hotel is also home to a stellar spa, which I did make time to grab a hot stone massage at before my flight.

Afternoon: One thing I knew I needed to try before heading back to the states was Piri Piri chicken, so that was the mission for lunch, and we succeeded. 

We walked over to Franguinho do Príncipe, a Piri Piri chicken spot with sit-down and to-go options. We chose to sit down and split the half chicken, fries, rice and beans. The spicy oil adds the ideal kick to a perfectly roasted chicken.

Following lunch, we walked to the nearby Lisbon Botanical Gardens. This quiet haven in the city is a wonder to experience. As you explore the tree-lined trails, you will hear birds chirping, palm trees swaying, and the quiet chatter of other visitors. 

After the gardens, we went to A Ginjinha, a bar (the term bar is used lightly as there is no seating but rather a tiny storefront where you can purchase a shot and go), to try ginjinha, a cherry liqueur that Lisbon is known for. 

When we finished sipping our liqueur in the Praça, we walked up our biggest hill yet, to Miradouro do Jardim do Torel. This lookout/garden provides a peaceful and quiet respite from the typically crowded viewpoints in the city. Nestled in a rather insular neighborhood, it is the perfect place to enjoy a sunny afternoon. 

Evening: After taking in the view, we continued walking to the famous seafood spot for an early dinner, Cervejaria Ramiro. If you love crab, this is the place to get it (which I didn’t know until I was there, and I am not a fan of crab). We enjoyed clams in a garlic sauce, oysters, prawns, and even tried the spiky snails. 

Once we had finished our meal, we stopped by Nata Wine Bar, where we sat in the sun and sipped on a bottle of natural wine. After chatting with the bartender for her recommendations, we went on to Imprensa Cocktail & Oyster Bar, where we ended our night with burrata and specialty cocktails that our bartender had conjured up for us. It felt like the perfect end to our adventure.

Chamidae Ford was a guest of SLH Hotels and the World of Wine. Lonely Planet does not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.