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Calistoga just feels a little different from the rest of the Valley. It's somehow more open-faced, more raw, more uncut.
Part of the town's charms come from its unique geology. As famed 19th-century author Robert Louis Stevenson said of Calistoga: ‘the whole neighborhood of Mt St Helena is full of sulfur and boiling springs…Calistoga itself seems to repose on a mere film above a boiling, subterranean lake.'
And indeed, it does. Calistoga is synonymous with mineral water bearing its name, bottled here since 1924, and its springs and geysers have earned it an appropriate nickname: ‘Hot springs of the West.’
The old-fashioned main street lined with quirky shops and diverse characters wandering the sidewalks is the main draw here, as are the wonderful spa treatments to be had in the hot-mud baths that are certain to have some curative powers thanks to the volcanic ash from nearby Mt St Helena.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Calistoga.
Zoo
Giraffes in Wine Country? Whadya know. Safari West sprawls over 400 acres and hosts wildebeests, zebras, cheetahs and other exotic animals, which mostly roam free. See them on a guided 2½-hour safari in open-sided jeeps, which also includes a 30-minute hike; reservations required, no kids under four (unless you book a private wagon).
State Park
At this undeveloped state park 8 miles north of Calistoga, the long-extinct volcanic cone of Mt St Helena marks Napa Valley’s end. It's a strenuous 5-mile climb to the peak’s 4343ft summit, but what a view – 200 miles on a clear winter’s day. Check conditions before setting out; it often gets snow in winter. Also consider 2.2-mile one-way Table Rock Trail (go south from the summit trailhead parking area) for drop-dead valley views. No dogs allowed.
Museum
Across from the picturesque 1902 City Hall (originally an opera house), the Sharpsteen Museum was created by an ex-Disney animator (whose Oscar is on display) and houses a fantastic diorama of town in the 1860s, big Victorian dollhouse, full-size horse-drawn carriage and a restored cottage from entrepreneur Samuel Brannan’s original resort. (The only Brannan cottage still at its original site is at 109 Wappo Ave).
Winery
In downtown Calistoga, this tasting room run by a long-time winemaker specializes in extremely small-production wines produced with wild yeast. The big Cabs, floral Pinots and dry whites often sell out quickly, with the winery producing less than 1000 cases a year. Bottles cost $38 to $125. Tasting fee is waived with a purchase of three bottles.
State Park
A mile-long trail leads from Bale Grist Mill State Historic Park to adjacent Bothe-Napa Valley State Park, where there’s a swimming pool ($5) and camping, plus hiking through redwood groves. If you're two or more adults, go first to Bothe and pay $8, instead of the per-head charge at Bale Grist.
Park
This park features a 36ft-high water-powered mill wheel dating to 1846 – the largest still operating in North America. The best part: you can actually see them grinding flour when they open up for tours on the weekends. Weekdays, it's still fun to stop by for a peek. In early October, look for living-history festival Old Mill Days.
Geyser
Calistoga’s miniversion of Yellowstone’s Old Faithful shoots boiling water 30ft to 80ft into the air, every 10 to 20 minutes. The vibe is pure roadside Americana, with folksy hand-painted interpretive exhibits, picnicking and a little petting zoo, where you can come nose-to-nose with llamas. It’s 2 miles northwest of town, between Hwy 128 and Hwy 29.
Forest
Three million years ago at this now roadside-Americana attraction, a volcanic eruption at Mt St Helena blew down a stand of redwoods. The trees fell in the same direction, away from the blast, and over the millennia the mighty giants’ trunks turned to stone. The 2017 wildfire damaged a lot of the property, and at the time of research, only a mile of trail was open. The petrified wood pieces were luckily saved from the blaze.