Carved by glaciers, this trolls’ home and former highwayrobber’s haunt 84km southwest of Örebro makes for wonderful wild walking. The park, reopened in 2017 after extensive works, is noted for its rare, ancient virgin forests, and has lots of dramatic bare bedrock, extensive boulder fields and a scattering of lakes. Several self-guided walks, including the 6km Trollkyrka (‘troll church’) trail, start from the visitor centre in the southeastern part of the park, 5km north of Rd 49 (turn-off at Bocksjö).
There are also themed guided tours (150kr), starting at 10am Wednesday through Sunday from the visitor centre from mid-June to August. You can pick up brochures and maps here, and there’s a small shop.
A few kilometres north along Rd 49 is the turn-off to Fagertärn, a pretty lake that fills with blood-red water lilies in July. Legend says a fisherman called Fager traded his daughter to the fearsome water spirit Näcken in exchange for a good catch. On their wedding day, the daughter rowed out onto the lake alone and drove a knife into her heart, and the lilies have been stained red ever since.
The park is a bit out of the way, and there’s no public transport, but if you have your own wheels it’s worth a stop, especially for hikers.
The area is also good for cycling (the Sverigeleden trail passes nearby), canoeing, fishing, cross-country skiing and horse riding. Contact the visitor centre for arrangements.
You can camp overnight in the park or stay in adorable little red huts at the STF Tivedstorp Vandrarhem.