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Trincomalee (Trinco) sits on one of the world’s finest natural harbors. This historic city is old almost beyond reckoning: it’s possibly the site of historic Gokana in the Mahavamsa (Great Chronicle), and its Shiva temple the site of Trikuta Hill in the Hindu text Vayu Purana. It makes a great stop over on the way to the nearby beaches of Uppuveli and Nilaveli.
Trincomalee’s superb deep-water port has made it the target for all manner of attacks over the centuries: by the British takeover in 1795, the city had changed colonial hands seven times. It's easy to spend a day or more exploring the ins and outs of the myriad waterfronts and the fort and its famous temple.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Trincomalee.
Hindu Site
This revered temple at the summit of a rocky outcrop is one of Sri Lanka’s pancha ishwaram, five historical Hindu temples dedicated to Shiva and established to protect the island from natural disaster. It houses the lingam (Hindu phallic symbol) known as the Swayambhu Lingam. It's an ancient place of worship, but the current structure dates to 1952. Pilgrims from across the nation flock here; its puja (prayers) at 6.30am, 11.30am and 4.30pm are always well attended.
Fortress
Occupying the neck of a narrow peninsula, Fort Frederick has been a defensively important site for centuries. A fortress was initially constructed here by the Portuguese in 1623 and later rebuilt by the Dutch. The British took over in 1782 (look out for royal insignias crowning the tunnel-like gateway that pierces the fort’s massively stout walls). The fortress is used today by the Sri Lankan military, but you're able to explore most of the fort by foot or car.
Buddhist Site
One of the holiest Buddhist monuments in Sri Lanka, founded in the 2nd century BC, but only rediscovered, and reconstructed, in the 1920s. This stupa pokes above the scrubby plains and was renovated in 2009. The tiny village here has snack vendors.
Museum
A grand 18th-century Dutch colonial building has been renovated and turned into a museum. Displays on the ground floor cover Sri Lankan naval history back to Marco Polo's time. Upstairs there's a lot of useful info on the flora and fauna of the east coast, especially that of Pigeon Island. Wide porches are fine places to pause and take in the views.
Beach
Manayaweli Cove is an appealing curl of fishing beach with clean sand where you can also swim in the clear water; reach it by strolling past Manayaweli Pond, aka Dhoby Tank.
Viewpoint
The base for Kandasamy Kovil is considered the world's greatest vantage point for spotting blue whales. Note the odd cubic-shaped rocks below.
Beach
About 17km south of Trinco, there's a turn-off on the left for Marble Beach (signposted just before the Kinniya bridge), a glorious cove bookended by wooded headlands. Run by the air force, there is a resort at the north end of the cove. But spend your time at the south end in the perfect water, enjoying the emerald and blue views and the sight of the odd passing freighter. Note that on weekdays, it can get overrun by school groups.
Beach
Right in the centre of Trinco is the attractive and picturesque Dutch Bay. Swimming is possible despite sometimes dangerous undertows. However, it’s more a place for strolling with an ice cream from the many vendors.
Church
Of the city's churches, the 1852 Catholic St Mary’s Cathedral is particularly attractive, with a sky-blue neo-baroque frontage and a tiled, towered rear. Inside, portraits of saints gaze out between the columns.