Jeoldusan means ‘Beheading Hill’ – this is where up to 2000 Korean Catholics were executed in 1866 following a royal decree, most thrown off the high cliff here into the Han River. Next to the chapel (where mass is held daily at 10am and 3pm) the museum includes some of the grizzly wooden torture equipment used on the Catholic martyrs, 27 of whom have been made saints. There are also books, diaries and relics of the Catholic converts.

Various statues and monuments are dotted around the peaceful gardens that envelop the chapel and museum. To get here from the subway exit, take the second turn left and follow the covered railway line for 700m – it’s less than a 10-minute walk.