Kigali

In the span of 100 days, an estimated one million Tutsis and moderate Hutus were systematically butchered by the Interahamwe army. This memorial honours the estimated 250,000 people buried here in mass graves and also has an excellent exhibition that tries to explain how it was that the world watched as the 1994 genocide unfolded. This is an intensely powerful and moving memorial for which you should dedicate at least half a day.

The 10 stone columns you find here mark the spot where 10 Belgian UN peacekeepers were murdered on the first day of the genocide. Originally deployed to protect the home of moderate Prime Minister Agathe Uwilingiyimana, the soldiers were captured, disarmed and brought here by the Presidential Guard before being killed. Each stone column represents one of the soldiers and the horizontal cuts in it represent the soldier’s age.

Opened in 2012, the privately run Inema Arts Center is a collective of 10 resident artists and guests. It's quickly established itself as the foremost modern art gallery in Kigali. As well as paintings, sculptures and contemporary takes on traditional crafts, there are dance and music performances several days a week and courses. Much of the art is for sale (and can be shipped internationally), but if you're not buying, you're welcome just to admire. There's a small on-site cafe.

The inspiration for the film Hotel Rwanda, this still-functioning luxury hotel was owned by the Belgian airline Sabena in 1994. At the time of the genocide, the hotel’s European managers were evacuated and control was given to local employee Paul Rusesabagina, who used his position to hide fleeing Tutsis and moderate Hutus, thus saving hundreds of lives.

Some of the most horrific massacres during the genocide took place inside the sanctums of churches throughout Rwanda, including inside Ntarama church, about 25km south of Kigali, where more than 5000 perished. The church has almost not been touched since the genocide ended and the bodies were removed. Today, there are many bits of clothing scraps as well as skulls on shelves, and three mass graves next to the church.