Snoozing on the northeastern edge of Piatra Craiului National Park are Măgura and Peștera, known as the Kalibash Villages. This alpine idyll of fields flecked with cottages, backed by Mt Craiului, is interrupted only by crowing cocks (and sheepdogs chasing your car). Tiny Măgura and Peștera are superb bases to launch into the national park or join a bear-tracking tour.
The villages’ first inhabitants lived in mud huts dug into the ground, known as ‘coliba’, which gave the area its name. Meadows continue to be cut by scythe. While Peștera is just outside the national park boundary, Măgura is reachable only by rattling along a steep gravelled road, giving the area a wild, lost-in-time feel.