Sloping steeply down to the riverside – its brightly painted, laundry-strung houses pasted picturesquely to the hillside – Miragaia is a delight for a serendipitous wander. Besides a handful of sights and an art-crammed gallery, the real appeal here is strolling labyrinthine lanes to sky-high viewpoints, time-warp bars and family-run tascas (taverns) in the old Jewish quarter, Vitória. Here history waits around every cobbled corner.
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