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Encircled by terraced hillsides that produce some of the world’s best port – and some stellar table wines, too – pretty little Pinhão sits on a particularly lovely bend of the Rio Douro, about 25km upriver from Peso da Régua. Wineries and their competing signs dominate the scene. Even the delightful train station has azulejos (hand-painted tiles) depicting the grape harvest. The town itself, cute though it is, holds little of interest, but does makes a fine base for exploring the many surrounding vineyards.
In addition to drinking your fill, this is a good setting for country walks, and cruises along the river by boat or train.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Pinhão.
Portuguese
Architect Miguel Saraiva's ode to clean-lined, glass-walled minimalism, DOC is headed up by Portuguese star chef Rui Paula. Its terrace peering out across the river is a stunning backdrop. Dishes give a pinch of imagination to seasonal, regional flavours, from seafood açordas (stew) to game and wild mushrooms – all are paired with carefully selected wines from the cellar.
Portuguese
Whether you come for drinks, tapas and sunset over the river, or for one of the splendid three-course 'dinner parties' hosted by chef Pedro Cardoso, Quinta de la Rosa's recently launched restaurant is a delightful place to dine. Snag a table on the outdoor terrace if you can – views of the vineyards and the Douro flowing far below are breathtaking.
Portuguese
A bit like wandering into your Portuguese grandmother's house, this quirky restaurant in Provesende village is all about simple, tasty home cooking. It often gets busy with tour groups, so call ahead to rustle up a table. The proprietress will ask if you prefer meat or fish; beyond that, everything is up to her whim – unpredictable, but always satisfyingly authentic.
Portuguese
Wood-grilled meats and fish are the speciality at this schist-walled restaurant by the riverfront. On sunny days, the vine-shaded front terrace is the place to be, with views of local fishermen under their umbrellas on the adjacent dock. From the train station, follow the main road left for 150m, then turn left again under a railway bridge to the river.
Gastronomy
Young chef Milton Ferreira presides over this swank modern restaurant looking out over the Quinta do Portal vineyards about 12km north of Pinhão. Diners are treated to daily-changing four-course menus accompanied by free-flowing wines from the adjacent estate.
Portuguese
Serving traditional Portuguese food with minimal fanfare, Ponte Românica specialises in tasty grilled meat and fish (lamb chops, sea bass, salmon and octopus), salads and rice dishes, and – with advance notice – cabrito assado (roasted kid goat). From the train station, turn left and follow the main road for 600m; cross the stone bridge and look for it on the right.