Tridente, Trevi & the Quirinale

Fountain

Why you should go Rome's most famous fountain, the iconic Fontana di Trevi, or Trevi Fountain, is a flamboyant baroque ensemble of mythical figures and wild horses taking up the entire side of the 17th-century Palazzo Poli. Thousands visit the fountain every day, keeping up with the tradition of tossing a coin into the water to ensure they will return to Rome. That, and it makes for a great photo opportunity. On average, about  €3000 ($3600) is thrown in daily. Want to avoid the crowds? Visit later in the evening, when the fountain is beautifully lit, and you can appreciate its foaming majesty in a quieter environment. History The fountain's design, the work of Nicola Salvi in 1732, depicts sea-god Oceanus in a shell-shaped chariot led by Tritons with seahorses – one wild, one docile – representing the moods of the sea. In the niche to the left of Neptune, a statue represents Abundance; to the right is Salubrity. The water comes from the Aqua Virgo, a 1st-century-BCE underground aqueduct, and the name Trevi refers to the "tre vie" (three roads) that converge at the fountain. The famous tradition of tossing a coin into the fountain to ensure your trip to Rome comes from the 1954 film Three Coins in the Fountain. The money thrown into the Trevi is collected daily and goes to the Catholic charity Caritas, with its yield increasing significantly since the crackdown on people extracting the money for themselves. Most famously, Trevi Fountain is where movie star Anita Ekberg cavorted in a ballgown in director Federico Fellini's classic La Dolce Vita (1960); apparently she wore waders under her iconic black dress but still shivered during the winter shoot. In the summer of 2016, a British woman was fined €450 ($542) for dancing in the fountain in an evening dress and fur stole in blatant imitation of the iconic actress. In 2016, fashion house Fendi staged a "Legends and Fairytales" fashion show at the fountain during which catwalk models walked on water – or rather strutted across a glass walkway constructed above the emerald water – as the sun set over this Roman icon. It was given permission to do so in acknowledgment of its €2.18 million ($2.62 million) sponsorship of the fountain's restoration. Trevi Fountain rules and etiquette Paddling or bathing in the fountain is strictly forbidden, as is eating and drinking on the steps leading down to the water. Both crimes risk an on-the-spot fine of up to €500 ($600). Coin-tossing etiquette includes throwing with your right hand over your left shoulder, with your back facing the fountain. Nearby restaurants Indulge in a tasty Tuscan lunch before or afterwards at Il Chianti or head to Hostaria Romana, beloved by tourists and locals alike. Brasserie-style Baccano is a great all-rounder, perfect for a drink or snack whatever the time of day. San Crispino is the nearest recommended gelateria for cool treat after admiring the fountain.

Gallery

Commissioned to celebrate the Barberini family’s rise to papal power, this sumptuous baroque palace impresses even before you view its breathtaking art collection. Many high-profile architects worked on it, including rivals Bernini and Borromini; the former contributed a square staircase, the latter a helicoidal one. Amid the masterpieces on display, don’t miss Filippo Lippi’s Annunciazione (Annunciation; 1440–45) and Pietro da Cortona’s ceiling fresco Il Trionfo della Divina Provvidenza (The Triumph of Divine Providence; 1632–39).

Basilica

This is one of Rome’s richest Renaissance churches, with a particularly impressive collection of art, including two Caravaggios: the Conversion of St Paul (1600–1601) and the Crucifixion of St Peter (1601). These are in the 16th-century Cerasi Chapel to the left of the main altar. Other fine works include Caracci's Assumption of the Virgin (c 1660) in the same chapel and multiple frescoes by Pinturicchio (look for his 1484–90 Adoration of the Christ Child in the Della Rovere Chapel).

Piazza

A magnet for visitors since the 18th century, the Spanish Steps (Scalinata della Trinità dei Monti) provide a perfect people-watching perch. The 135 gleaming steps rise from Piazza di Spagna to the landmark Chiesa della Trinità dei Monti. Piazza di Spagna was named after the Spanish Embassy to the Holy See, although the staircase, designed by the Italian Francesco de Sanctis, was built in 1725 with money bequeathed by a French diplomat.

Palace

Built for Cardinal Ricci da Montepulciano in 1540, this sumptuous Renaissance palace was purchased by Ferdinando de' Medici in 1576 and remained in Medici hands until 1801, when Napoleon acquired it for the French Academy. Guided tours (1½ hours) in multiple languages take in the sculpture-filled gardens and orchard, a garden studio exquisitely frescoed by Jacopo Zucchi in 1577 and the cardinal's private apartments. Note the pieces of ancient Roman sculpture from the Ara Pacis embedded in the villa's walls.

Archaeological Site

Underneath a grand mansion that’s been the seat of the Province of Rome since 1873 lie the archaeological remains of several lavish ancient Roman houses; the excavated fragments have been turned into a fascinating multimedia ‘experience’. Tours are held every 30 minutes, but rotate between Italian, English, French, German and Spanish. Book ahead online or by phone (advance booking fee €1.50), especially during holiday periods.

Piazza

A wonderful spot to enjoy a glowing Roman sunset, this piazza, which is dominated by the imposing presidential palace of Palazzo del Quirinale, marks the summit of Quirinal Hill. The central obelisk was moved here from the Mausoleo di Augusto in 1786 and is flanked by 5.5m statues of Castor and Pollux reining in a couple of rearing horses. Catch the weekly changing of the guards on Sunday at 6pm in summer, and 4pm the rest of the year.

Area

High-rolling shoppers and window-dreamers take note: this is Rome’s smartest shopping strip. At the eastern end, near Piazza di Spagna, Caffè Greco was a favourite meeting point of 18th- and 19th-century writers. Other top shopping streets in the area include Via Frattina, Via della Croce, Via delle Carrozze and Via del Babuino.

Gallery

The guided tours of this opulent palace are among the city's best, introducing visitors to the residence and art collection of the patrician Colonna family. The largest private palace in Rome, it has a formal garden, multiple reception rooms and a grandiose baroque Great Hall built to honour Marcantonio II Colonna, a hero of the 1571 Battle of Lepanto. Guides recount plenty of anecdotes about family members including fascinating Maria Mancini Mazzarino, a feisty favourite of Louis XIV of France.