In a tiny studio opened with a giant 18th-century key, sculptor and painter Salvatore Vitagliano takes fragments of ancient terracotta figurines and completes them, creating simple yet striking works that literally fuse old and new. This theme of ‘temporal collision’ extends to his Neapolitan playing cards, handpainted onto metro tickets. Call ahead to visit, though it’s worth noting that Salvatore doesn’t speak English.

Lonely Planet's must-see attractions

Nearby Naples attractions

2. Cappella Sansevero

0.08 MILES

It's in this Masonic-inspired baroque chapel that you'll find Giuseppe Sanmartino's incredible sculpture, Cristo velato (Veiled Christ), its marble veil…

3. Napoli Sotterranea


This evocative guided tour leads you 40m below street level to explore Naples' ancient labyrinth of aqueducts, passages and cisterns.

4. Palazzo dei Di Sangro


It's in this 16th-century palazzo that Neapolitan musician Carlo Gesualdo murdered his unfaithful wife, Maria d'Avalos, and her handsome lover, Don…

5. Lello Esposito

0.11 MILES

Dividing his time between Naples and New York, the infectiously charming Lello Esposito (who speaks very little English) is intrigued by Neapolitan…

6. Chiesa di San Domenico Maggiore

0.12 MILES

Completed in 1324 on the orders of Charles I of Anjou, this was the royal church of the Angevins. Pietro Cavallini's frescoes in the Cappella Brancaccio…

7. Chiesa di San Pietro a Maiella

0.12 MILES

Dedicated to hermit Pietro del Morrone, who was promoted to Pope Celestine V in 1294, this Gothic veteran is most famous for its series of baroque ceiling…

8. Basilica di San Paolo Maggiore

0.12 MILES

Despite dating from the 8th century, this glorious basilica was almost entirely rebuilt at the end of the 16th century. Its huge, gold-stuccoed interior…