Oebelo, a small salt-mining town 22km from Kupang on the Soe road, is notable for a terrific Rotenese musical-instrument workshop, Sasandu, run by Pak Pah and his family. Traditional 20-stringed harps, aka sasando, are made and played in all sizes. Pak may treat you to a haunting instrumental number, or a cover of Country Road.
Oesao is another 6km down the road and is a mandatory stop for one marvellous reason: Inzana, a roadside sweet shop located just east of the main market that serves a variety of traditional Timorese cakes. Our favourites are the pancakes stuffed with coconut cream, and the sublime (and still warm) flying saucer–shaped discs of fried dough stuffed with candied rice. Your driver will know the place. Stock up for the road. Ignore the lesser competition nearby.