East Java

Down a spur that branches from the main road just after the Hindu temple, Sadengan grazing ground has the largest herd of banteng (wild cattle) in Java. Keep an eye out for the birds hopping along their backs in a search for ticks and other insects, and lovely herons often glide into the frame. Kijang (deer) and peacocks can also be seen here from the viewing tower. This beautiful meadow, backed by rolling, forested hills, is a 2km walk from Trianggulasi.

Alas Purwo also has a small population of ajag (Asiatic wild dogs), jungle fowl, leaf monkeys, muntjac deer, sambar deer and a few leopards. Some rangers even swear they've seen tigers here, which is almost certainly untrue. Or is it? Either way, they can arrange interesting (but often fruitless) nocturnal leopard-spotting expeditions for around 100,000Rp.