Welcome to Lamayuru to Mulbekh
West of Lamayuru, the NH1 road zigzags up towards spires that tower impressively over Fotu La (4147m; Km295.9). At Km284.9, a 12km spur road leads through memorable canyons to Kanji, an authentic village of less than 300 souls that's most famous for its tiny Chuchik-Zhal Temple containing a trio of millennium-old Alchi-style statues. Back on the NH1, look north 1.5km after the Kanji turn-off to spy the shattered Hansukot (Haniskot) Fortress Ruins. A comparatively wide, fertile valley extends west and, though marred by army camps, includes some interesting exploration options around historic Bodh Kharbu. At Khangral Junction (Km268.3), a side lane leads north past Chitkan's dramatic Razi Khor palace-fortress ruin to Sanjak and Dha villages. The NH1 meanwhile winds west across the 3760m Namik La before descending 15km into the glorious Wakha Valley.