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Saxony

Placed where northern plains abut mountain ranges and German efficiency meets Slavic flamboyance, packed with elegant hilltop castles and lavish baroque palaces, Saxony is the definition of Central Europe. It was also at the centre of events during the most decisive points in European history, such as the Reformation, Napoleonic Wars, and velvet revolutions that dismantled Communist regimes in the late 1980s.

It's likely you've seen some of Saxony's most striking sights on classical paintings, be it Canaletto's views of Dresden's captivating baroque cityscape or Friedrich's depictions of Saxon Switzerland, a breathtakingly beautiful passage cut through the mountains by the Elbe River. You've most definitely heard musical masterpieces written in Leipzig by Johann Sebastian Bach and Richard Wagner.

But there is more to discover – from quaint baroque towns to centuries-old industrial heritage. Halfway between Berlin and Prague, Saxony is a perfect introduction to what awaits you east of Germany.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Saxony.

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Zwinger
A collaboration between the architect Matthäus Pöppelmann and the sculptor Balthasar Permoser, the Zwinger was built between 1710 and 1728 on the orders of Augustus the Strong, who, having returned from seeing Louis XIV's palace at Versailles, wanted something similar for himself. Primarily a party palace for royals, the Zwinger has ornate portals that lead into the vast fountain-studded courtyard, which is framed by buildings lavishly adorned with evocative sculpture. Today it houses three superb museums within its baroque walls. Atop the western pavilion stands a tense-looking Atlas. Opposite him is a cutesy carillon of 40 Meissen porcelain bells, which emit a tinkle every 15 minutes. Entry to the magnificent courtyard is free, but all three museums are ticketed. The Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister (Old Masters Gallery) and Porzellansammlung (Porcelain Collection) are unmissable, while the historic scientific instruments (globes, clocks, telescopes etc) at the Mathematisch-Physikalischer Salon are perhaps more for the scientifically minded.
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Residenzschloss
Dresden's extraordinary Renaissance city palace, home to its Saxon rulers from 1485 to 1918, now shelters multiple precious collections – including the unmissable Grünes Gewölbe (Green Vault), a real-life Aladdin’s Cave spilling over with precious objects wrought from gold, ivory, silver, diamonds and jewels. The palace itself was bombed out in 1945, and though reconstruction began in the 1960s, it wasn't completed until 2013. The entire building, including its unique murals and baroque towers, is quite simply spectacular. There’s so much on display here that two separate treasure chambers – the Historisches Grünes Gewölbe and the Neues Grünes Gewölbe – are needed to display the extraordinary wealth of the Saxon rulers' private collections. Also housed here is the Kupferstich-Kabinett, which counts around half a million prints and drawings by 20,000 artists (including Dürer, Rembrandt and Michelangelo) in its possession. Numismatists might want to drop by the Münzkabinett (Coin Cabinet) in the palace tower for a small array of historic coins and medals. The Türckische Cammer (Turkish Chamber), one of the richest collections of Ottoman art outside Turkey, is also here. A huge three-mast tent made of gold and silk is one standout among many. The new Riesensaal (Giant's Hall) houses a spectacular collection of armour, including including a recreation of several jousting tournaments. You can easily spend several hours exploring the various collections here. On top of the combination ticket that includes everything Residenzschloss has on display, cheaper tickets can be bought separately for Historisches Grünes Gewölbe and for all other exhibitions excluding the former. One- and two-day cards, which allow you to enter exhibitions multiple times, are also available at €19 and €27 respectively.
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Erlebniswelt Haus Meissen
Next to the historic porcelain factory south of the Altstadt, this museum is the place to witness the astonishing artistry and artisanship that makes Meissen porcelain unique. Visits start with a 30-minute group tour (with English audioguide) of four studios, where artists demonstrate vase throwing, plate painting, figure moulding and glazing. This gives you a better appreciation for the ensuing collections of historic and contemporary porcelain, which can be enjoyed at your own speed. The museum is hugely popular and often totally overrun by coach tours. As entry is timed and only in groups, you may have to wait a while during high season.
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Nikolaikirche
This church has Romanesque and Gothic roots, but since 1797 has sported a striking neoclassical interior with palm-like pillars and cream-coloured pews. While the design is certainly gorgeous, the church is most famous for playing a key role in the nonviolent movement that led to the downfall of the East German government. As early as 1982 it hosted ‘peace prayers’ every Monday at 5pm (still held today), which over time inspired and empowered local citizens to confront the injustices plaguing their country. Starting in September 1989, the prayers were followed by candlelight demonstrations, which reached their peak on 9 October when 70,000 citizens took to the streets. The military, police and secret police stood ready to suppress the protests, as they had so violently done only two days earlier. But the order never came. The GDR leadership had capitulated. A singular palm-topped column outside the church commemorates this peaceful revolution.
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Militärhistorisches Museum Dresden
Even devout pacifists will be awed by this engaging museum, housed in a 19th-century arsenal bisected by a bold glass-and-steel wedge designed by Daniel Libeskind. Exhibits have been updated for the 21st century, so don't expect a rollcall of military victories or a parade of weapons. Instead, you'll find a progressive – and often artistic – look at the roots and ramifications of war and aggression. Exhibits in the Libeskind wedge zero in on such sociocultural aspects as women in the war, animals in the war, war-themed toys, the economy of war and the suffering brought on by war. The historical wing presents a chronology of German wars from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. Standouts among the countless intriguing objects are a 1975 Soyuz landing capsule, a V2 rocket, and personal items of concentration camp victims. Allow at least two hours to do this amazing museum justice.
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Terra Mineralia
Occupying a greater part of the 16th-century Freundenstein castle, this astounding collection of minerals makes human-made art seem insignificant compared to the genius of nature. The experience is akin to snorkelling over coral reefs – as you descend from the 5th floor, the dramatically dim-lit halls fill with thousands of colours radiating from dazzling gems. Each hall represents a continent where exhibits come from, with a separate section dedicated to meteorites. The exhibition is a tribute to mineralogy enthusiast and heiress to the Wella cosmetics empire, Erika Pohl-Ströher, who donated her collection to Freiberg Bergakademie in 2004. An annexe to the museum, the adjacent Krügerhaus, contains a collection of minerals found in Germany. Audioguides are available for the main exhibition (€3) and Krügerhaus (€2).
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Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister
This astounding collection of European art from the 16th to 18th centuries houses an incredible number of masterpieces, including Raphael's famous Sistine Madonna (1513), which dominates the enormous main hall on the ground floor, as well as works by Titian, Tintoretto, Holbein, Dürer, and Cranach, whose Paradise (1530) is particularly arresting. Upstairs you'll find an exquisite display of Rembrandt, Botticelli, Veronese, Van Dyck, Vermeer, Brueghel and Poussin. Finally, don't miss Canaletto's sumptuous portrayals of 18th-century Dresden on the top floor. At the time of research, the gallery was undergoing a major renovation, due to be finished in the spring of 2019. In the meantime, a compressed collection is on display in either of the two wings, which are being reconstructed in turns.
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Albertinum
The Renaissance-era former arsenal is the stunning home of the Galerie Neue Meister (New Masters Gallery), which displays an array of paintings by some of the great names in art from the 18th century onwards. Caspar David Friedrich and Claude Monet's landscapes compete with the abstract visions of Marc Chagall and Gerhard Richter, all in gorgeous rooms orbiting a light-filled courtyard. There's also a superb sculpture collection spread over the lower floors. Less damaged in the allied bombing of 1945, the Albertinum served as the museum of museums after World War II, housing the main Dresden art collections until they could be moved to restored premises.
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Museen im Grassi
The university-run Museen im Grassi harbours three fantastic collections that are often overlooked, despite being a five-minute walk from Augustusplatz. At the stellar Musikinstrumenten-Museum you can discover music from five centuries in rarity-filled exhibits and an interactive sound laboratory. The Museum für Völkerkunde takes you on an eye-opening journey through the cultures of the world. The Museum für Angewandte Kunst has an excellent art nouveau and art deco furniture, porcelain, glass and ceramics collection.