Surrounded by green-tipped volcanoes, San Salvador is handsome for a Central American capital city. Its leafy suburbs are pleasant to explore on foot, and its galleries and museums stand out. After undergoing a major facelift, the city center has never looked better.

Western El Salvador may be a small region, but it contains the majority of the country's attractions.

Located 50km northeast of San Salvador, wondrous little 'Suchi' is the cultural capital of the country. Every weekend the cobbled streets come alive as Suchi fills with weekenders. In February, the entire month celebrates the town's resident artists and the small galleries swell with domestic tourists.

San Salvador lies in the 'valley of the hammocks', skirted by makeshift communities clinging precariously to sloping land and with Maya ruins dotting its fringe. It is also surrounded by steep volcanic peaks that offer hiking opportunities and visits to small artists' towns and coffee fincas (plantations) elevated from the heat.

La Libertad is the first port of call for many travelers fleeing the capital in search of Pacific Coast surf beaches and all the misadventure that entails. Its no picture postcard, but the notorious Punta Roca wave breaking before a bustling fish market and malecón creates a striking urban image hard to manufacture elsewhere in the world.