When Pinar del Río's greenery starts to erupt into craggy mogotes (limestone monoliths) and you spy a cigar-chewing guajiro driving his oxen and plough through a rust-colored tobacco field, you know you've arrived in Viñales. Despite its longstanding love affair with tourism, this slow, relaxed, wonderfully traditional settlement is a place that steadfastly refuses to put on a show. What you see here is what you get – an agricultural town where front doors are left wide open, everyone knows everyone else, and a night out on the tiles involves sitting on a sillón (rocking chair) on a rustic porch analyzing the Milky Way.
People don't come to Viñales for the music or the mojitos, they come to dip indulgently into the natural world, hiking, horse-riding or cycling through some of the most wonderful landscapes in Cuba. Join them.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Viñales.