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Opatija

Genteel Opatija, 13km west of Rijeka, was the most chic seaside resort for the Austro-Hungarian elite during the days of the Austro-Hungarian Empire – as evidenced by the many handsome belle époque villas that the period bequeathed the town. Although it lost a lot of its sheen during the Yugoslav period, Opatija has spruced itself up in the last decade and once again attracts a mainly mature crowd, drawn to its grand spa hotels, spectacular location and agreeable year-round climate. Some excellent restaurants have sprung up to cater to them, with a particularly good cluster in pretty Volosko, just up the road.

The town sprawls along the coast between forested hills and the sparkling Adriatic, and the whole waterfront is connected by a promenade. Don’t expect great beaches (there aren’t any), but there’s still excellent swimming in the sheltered bays.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Opatija.

  • Museum

    Croatian Museum of Tourism

    Spread between three historic buildings, this excellent museum houses a permanent collection of old photographs, postcards, brochures and posters tracing the history of tourism, and there’s always a well-presented travel-themed exhibition as well. But it's the buildings themselves that are the main attraction. The restored Villa Angiolina is one of Opatija’s grandest structures – a marvel of trompe l’œil frescos, Corinthian capitals, gilded mirrors and geometric floor mosaics – though the addition of modern windows is a crime against architecture.

  • Waterfront

    Lungomare

    Lined with majestic villas and ample gardens, this wonderful path (more formally known as the Franz Joseph I Promenade) is a people-watcher’s dream and stroller’s delight. It winds along the coast, past villa after villa, for 12km from Volosko to Lovran via the villages of Ičići and Ika. Along the way you can peer into the homes of the wealthy and marvel at their seafront palaces.