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Gorgeous Trogir (called Trau by the Venetians) is set within medieval walls on a tiny island, linked by bridges to both the mainland and to the far larger Čiovo Island. On summer nights everyone gravitates to the wide seaside promenade lined with bars, cafes and yachts, leaving the knotted, mazelike marble streets gleaming mysteriously under old-fashioned streetlights.
The old town has retained many intact and beautiful buildings from its age of glory between the 13th and 15th centuries. In 1997 its profuse collection of Romanesque and Renaissance buildings earned it World Heritage status.
While it's easily reached on a day trip from Split, Trogir also makes a good alternative base to the big city and a relaxing place to spend a few days.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Trogir.
Cathedral
Trogir's show-stopping attraction is its three-naved Venetian cathedral, one of the finest architectural works in Croatia, built between the 13th and 15th centuries. Master Radovan carved the grand Romanesque portal in 1240, flanked by a nude Adam and Eve standing on the backs of lions. At the end of the portico is another fine piece of sculpture: the 1464 cherub-filled baptistery sculpted by Andrija Aleši.
Beach
On the Seget Riviera, 4km west of the old town, this stretch of beach has a long promenade lined with bars, tennis courts, minigolf, ice-cream parlours and stands renting jet skis, kayaks and windsurfers. While it's in the grounds of the faded Hotel Medena megaresort, it's open to the general public and there's parking on-site.
Museum
Highlights of this small museum include illuminated manuscripts; a large painting of St Jerome and St John the Baptist by Bellini; an almost-life-size, brightly painted Crucifix with Triumphant Christ; and the darkly lit fragments of a 13th-century icon that once adorned the cathedral's altar.
Beach
Trogir's most popular beach, Okrug Gornji (aka Copacabana), lies 1.7km south of the old town on the island of Čiovo, and can be reached by road or boat. It's a 2km-long stretch of pebbles, lined with cafe-bars, ice-cream parlours and holiday apartments.
Convent
The treasury of this Benedictine convent is home to a dazzling 3rd-century relief of Kairos, the Greek god of opportunity, carved out of orange marble.
Historic Building
Right at the western tip of Trogir island, this elegant gazebo was built by the French during the Napoleonic occupation of Dalmatia. At the time it jutted out into a marshy lagoon and Marshal Marmont used to sit within the circle of columns, surrounded by water, and play cards.
Castle
Built by the Venetians in around 1420, this fortress was once connected to the city walls. Inside it's basically an empty shell, but you can climb up and circle the walls. Concerts are held here during the Trogir Summer festival.
Palace
This palatial house, opposite the cathedral, was home to a prominent family during the 15th century. It's not open to the public, but you can stop to admire the intricately carved Gothic triforium encasing the windows on the facade, the work of Andrija Aleši.
Historic Building
This 15th-century building beside the cathedral has a Gothic courtyard decorated with coats of arms, a monumental staircase and a well carved with the winged lion of St Mark, the symbol of the Venetian Republic.