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Located within the confines of Parque Nacional Tortuguero, accessible only by air or water, this bustling little village with strong Afro-Caribbean roots is best known for attracting hordes of sea turtles (the name Tortuguero means "turtle catcher"). While peak turtle season is in July and August, the park and village have begun to attract travelers year-round. Even in October, when the turtles have pretty much returned to the sea, families and adventure travelers arrive to go on jungle hikes, take in the wild national park, and canoe the area’s lush canals.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Tortuguero Village.
Fusion
On a dirt path near the beach north of town, the simple, tucked-away place could be straight out of California or Portland (the owner has lived in both cities). It's dimly lit with paper lanterns, has a striking painting of a woman with tree branches for hair on the wall, and specializes in fresh, local, organic fusion cuisine.
Caribbean
Low-key atmosphere and high-quality cooking come together beautifully at this backstreet eatery southwest of the soccer field. The inviting garden setting, with chirping insects and picnic benches spread under colorful paper lanterns, is rivaled only by friendly chef Ray Taylor's culinary artistry. House specialties include beef in tamarind sauce, grilled fish in garlic sauce, and avocado-and-chicken salad.
Italian
The site has changed but it's still the place to come for an Italian fix: Tutti's lasagna and spaghetti dishes remain a hit. There are also plenty of pizzas and loaded calzones – the Caribbean flavor comes with tomato sauce infused with coconut and shrimps. Happy hour (two selected drinks for US$10) 3:30pm to 5:30pm. The only joint in town with artisanal beers.
Caribbean
Over the years, Tortuguero’s best-known and most delicious Caribbean eatery has grown from a personal kitchen to a full-blown restaurant. Prices have climbed accordingly, but the menu remains true to its roots: jerk chicken, filet mignon, whole snapper and coconut-curry mackerel with rice and beans. It's at the northern end of the main street.
Caribbean
Juan and Carole are getting high marks for their vegetarian and vegan offerings, as well as coastal specialties such as pasta in Caribbean sauce and garlic shrimp. To capitalize on their success, they're also offering a more romantic setting uptown, in the former Tutti locale, called Mi Niño Spot II, with the same menu.
European
Ambient club music, Tibetan prayer flags and a river view give this trendy cafe a tranquil vibe. It’s a pleasant setting for pizzas, salads, cocktails and crepes (savory and sweet). Grab a table outside for a prime view of the boats going by and, if you're lucky, the yellow-bellied flycatchers zipping across the water.
Bakery
Thanks to its predawn opening time, this is a good spot to pick up homemade banana bread, lemon-and-orange cake or cinnamon rolls before an early-morning flight or canal tour. The owner, Ricardo, also has some rooms upstairs to rent at Hotel River View.
Caribbean
Between the dock and the national park, this cozy log-cabin-like place will lure you in with the delicious smoky aroma of grilled chicken and pork ribs. It also serves seafood pasta, fajitas, salad, breakfast and a full Caribbean menu at lunch and dinnertime, plus a handful of luscious cocktails (caipirinha, pina colada).
Soda
Recover from a hike in the park at this riverside soda, serving jugos (juices), burgers and casados. It’s about 200m north of the park entrance.