Degongbu Temple

(德贡波, Dégòngbō Si) in downtown Ganzi is also known as Hanren Temple (汉人寺, Hànrén Sì) thanks to its Han–Tibetan fusion architecture (see the wild dragon carvings on the pillars). This hugely atmospheric 13th century temple is dedicated to the fierce Dharma protectors. Its two dimly lit halls (one old, the other finished in 2007) are filled with the sound of spinning prayer wheels and the smell of yak-butter candles. The latter is made by old woman who mashes the butter with a rolling pin in a large wooden chest then scoops it with a blue-and-white porcelain plate.