Standing proud in a long-forgotten corner of southeast Hebei, Cangzhou's Iron Lion is the oldest and largest cast-iron sculpture in China. Cast way back in AD 953, it weighs in at around 40 tonnes and stands almost 6m tall but, unsurprisingly for a creature that is more than 1000 years old, it is but a shadow of its former self.
The lion lost its tail in the 17th century; its snout and belly were damaged in a storm 200 years later; and the bronze statue of the Bodhisattva Manjusri, which once sat on top of the lotus flower on its back, was stolen centuries ago.
Despite today being almost 100km from the coast, in ancient times Cangzhou was a large seaport, which suffered from flooding and tsunamis. The Iron Lion was built to protect the city from sea spirits, and was known back then as Zhen Hai Hou (镇海吼), the Roaring Sea Calmer.
The site used to be the centre point of ancient Cangzhou, a walled settlement established in the far-off Han Dynasty (206 BC–AD 220). Incredibly, part of the ancient city wall, thought to have been built at the beginning of the Han Dynasty – so more than 2200 years ago – can still be seen a short distance from here.
For many years now the Iron Lion has cut a rather lonely figure, standing in an otherwise-empty courtyard surrounded by farmland, 15km from the modern city of Cangzhou. But things are about to change. The site was closed when we were last here and was in the final stages of being developed into the Cangzhou Iron Lion Scenic Area (沧州铁狮子景区, Cāngzhōu Tiě Shīzi Jǐngqū), a landscaped tourist park due to open at the end of 2019, and which will include the Iron Lion itself, plus a small temple with a slim, six-storey pagoda, another abandoned temple, called the Iron Money Warehouse (铁钱库; Tiě Qián Kù) and a new museum. Expect a price hike in the admission fee, and in the meantime keep your fingers crossed that the new development doesn't strip the site of its charming historical authenticity.
The remains of the ancient city wall will be outside the ticketed scenic area, 1.5km away. To reach it, walk up the country lane beside the new museum and cross the river. The earthen wall here is still around 5m tall, and you can walk along it in places. It once stretched for almost 10km around the city.
You can make a day trip to the Iron Lion from either Beijing or Tianjin. High-speed trains to Cangzhou West Station (沧州西站; Cāngzhōu Xī Zhàn) run roughly half-hourly from Beijing South Train Station (¥95, one hour, last train back 10.30pm) and roughly hourly from Tianjin South Train Station (¥50, 45 minutes, last train back 9.30pm). From Cangzhou West Station, take bus 16 to Cangzhou's main train station (火车站; huǒchēzhàn; ¥2, 40 minutes), then bus 901 (¥3, 40 minutes). Tell the driver you want tiě shīzi (tee-air shur-zuh) and he'll show you where to get off. Then follow the signposted lane beside the bus stop and very soon you'll see the pagoda then the Iron Lion on your right, with the Iron Money Warehouse and the new museum on your left.
The last 901 bus back to Cangzhou swings past here just after 6pm.