The city's 19th-century swagger is hard to miss on Iquique's central square. Pride of place goes to the 1877 Torre Reloj clock tower, seemingly baked and sugar-frosted rather than built. Jumping fountains line the walkway south to the marble-stepped Teatro Municipal, a neoclassical building that has been hosting opera and theater since 1890. A handsomely restored tram sits outside and occasionally jerks its way down Av Baquedano in high season.