As in Dhaka, the city’s oldest area is the waterfront part called Sadarghat, and as in Dhaka, it’s a cacophony of sensual assaults. The early arrival of the Portuguese is evinced by the proximity of the Paterghatta District, just next to Sadarghat, which remains a Christian area and a quiet, clean place to walk around.

For a fun, albeit perhaps slightly scary side-trip, hop on a wooden rowboat (per person Tk5) from Sadarghat and cross the ship-laden river to the fish harbour and market.

If you’re walking to Sadarghat from Station Rd, notice the rickshaw makers, with their tiny streetside workshops, hammering away on Sadarghat Rd.

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