20 Things to Know Before Visiting Edinburgh

With its grand castle and famous arts festival, the capital of Scotland is quite the tourist magnet. But Edinburgh isn’t just a collection of popular amusements. This is a living, thriving city, set on a series of extinct volcanoes and wrapped around medieval alleyways and grand civic squares. As anyone who spends any time here will quickly realize, Edinburgh is a city with real substance.

Every sandstone-hewn corner brings a wealth of history, and vibrant city life spills out of the city's parks, pubs and suburbs. It's worth really diving in and immersing yourself in all that Edinburgh has to offer, whether you make a fleeting visit for the Edinburgh Festival Fringe or linger for a week to soak in the history and heritage.

Here's what you need to know before visiting Edinburgh, from when to go and what to pack to the local slang and using Scottish banknotes.

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Trip planning

Start your trip on the right foot by giving some thought to how to get here and when to come.

1. Get into Edinburgh by public transport

Edinburgh's airport is 8 miles away from the center. You can cover the distance by bus (cheaper), tram (quicker when the roads are busy) or taxi (good for door-to-door drop-offs), as well as by Uber. The journey takes 20 to 30 minutes.

Train passengers roll into Edinburgh Waverley, within minutes of Edinburgh Castle and the Royal Mile. Travelers coming from England will get gorgeous coastal views on the way up, particularly around Durham, Newcastle-upon-Tyne and Berwick-upon-Tweed. Buses arrive at St Andrew’s Square in the New Town, just north of the center.

2. Give yourself time to explore

It's possible to enjoy Edinburgh in just a weekend, devoting one day to a whistle-stop tour of the Royal Mile and a ramble around the castle, and another to getting a sense of what the Old and New Towns have to offer. However, visiting for 4 days or more will give you a proper feel for the city, allowing time to climb Arthur's Seat and explore Holyrood Park, and perhaps roam out to the former port of Leith and the four art museums that comprise the National Galleries of Scotland, as well as ticking off all the big sights in the center.

3. Come in summer for a hint of sunshine

The Scottish weather isn't quite as unforgiving as its reputation suggests, but it is noticeably cooler and rainier here than in much of England. The best time to visit Edinburgh is usually the summer, when the days are long and bright, and the winds are more docile, though prices are higher and everything is busier. If you don’t mind a spot of dreich (dismal) weather, come in the cooler months – prices are lower, crowds are smaller, and you can mix warm pubs and museums with bracing strolls along atmospheric streets.

4. Pack waterproof gear

You’ll need a jacket whenever you’re visiting Edinburgh. The weather can change from bright sunshine to rain-lashed darkness in a heartbeat, and winters tend to be dark, damp and sometimes chilly. You’re also likely to do a fair bit of walking, so a pair of comfy shoes that can handle a bit of damp and mud is important, but there’s no need to pack anything particularly showy unless you're heading to a special occasion, going clubbing, or eating in Edinburgh's top restaurants.

5. Dodge the Festival (unless you’re here for the Festival)

The world’s biggest arts festival, the Edinburgh International Festival, takes over the city every August, accompanied by the famous Edinburgh Festival Fringe, which sees the entertainment spill into public spaces and small venues across the city. If you’re going, book your accommodation a good 6 months in advance, and be ready to book flights and tickets for big shows early, too.

If you’re not up for festival fun, crowds and higher prices, avoid August (or use the month to see less busy parts of Scotland, such as the Outer Hebrides or Orkney). Things also get pretty busy in Edinburgh around Hogmanay (the run-up to New Year), with similar hikes in prices, but the madness is shorter-lived, and Edinburgh returns to its quieter winter mode by the second week of January.

6. Booking in advance can be worth it

The earlier you book your accommodation in Edinburgh, the better, especially during any of the city's big celebrations. The biggest shows, including the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo, should also be booked well in advance. The Edinburgh City Pass is worth a look if you’re going to hit more expensive attractions such as Edinburgh Castle and Leith’s Royal Yacht Britannia – the pass covers fun city bus tours, too. Beyond that, booking online a day or so before you go is a good way to beat the queues at the sights, and guarantee a space for activities and tours.

7. Understand Edinburgh's two towns

Central Edinburgh is a city divided, but it’s not any ill feeling that keeps the city apart – a valley containing the elegant Princes Street Gardens and Waverley Station separates the Old and New Towns. The Old Town is the medieval quarter, where packed tenements rise high and cobbled streets and wynds (alleys) stretch down from the famous Royal Mile. The New Town (a mere 250 years old) has airy boulevards and clipped squares arranged in an orderly grid.

Farther out are neighborhoods such as the West End (fairly smart), Leith (the rough-cut setting of Trainspotting, now steadily gentrifying) and the Southside (low-key and studenty). Take time to explore – you'll find the vibe of outlying districts is very different from the touristy feel of the center.

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8. Get to grips with Scottish money

Scotland has its own banknotes, which may come as a surprise if you exchanged your home currency into British pounds before arriving. The good news is that the differences are purely cosmetic – while the designs are different, a Scottish £20 note is worth the same as an English £20 note, and both are accepted interchangeably (though Scottish notes are not always accepted in England).

Card and contactless payments are now more common than cash, and they're the easiest way to pay on public transport – if you use cash on a bus, you’ll need exact change. If you'll be here for a while and don't want to walk around with a pocket full of coins, a week-long Rideapass allows unlimited travel on the buses.

9. Keep Old Reekie smelling fresh

“Old Reekie” is one of Edinburgh’s most enduring nicknames. It dates from the 17th century, when the Old Town’s narrow, tall streets, combined with the Nor Loch (a stagnant pool where Princes Street Gardens now sits) created a notorious odor that mixed smoke and effluent.

These days, Edinburgh smells much like any other city, and traffic fumes have also been reduced by the city's Low Emission Zone. If you drive an older or more polluting vehicle, you risk a fine if you drive into the center, so check the rules before you come. Littering and dog fouling are also fineable offenses, so use the trash bins and help keep Edinburgh clean and fragrant.

10. Walk around Edinburgh to see more

Okay, the streets are steep and hilly, but walking is the best way to get around in Edinburgh – you’ll pass unexpected views, stumble across less-seen sights (like Dr Neil's Garden) and get a feel for the city’s rhythms. Bring comfortable shoes (and a raincoat, just in case) if you plan to tramp up Calton Hill, follow the Water of Leith Walkway, or hike to the top of Arthur's Seat.

If you’re heading right across town, the easiest option is usually a cab (try Central Taxis), or summon a rideshare through the Uber app. If you're watching your budget, or just prefer taking public transport, trams connect the city center and West End with the airport and buses will take you to Leith or the Southside. See the websites of Lothian Buses and Edinburgh Trams for timetables.

11. Don't miss the beaches

What? Edinburgh, a beach destination? Well, the Scottish capital is surprisingly close to a collection of popular beach strips that are great for a splash in summer, or a bracing walk bookended with fish and chips at other times of year. Portobello, 3 miles east of the center, is a good place to start, and you can get here by Lothian Bus 26 from Princes St, or travel by local train to Brunstane station and walk.

Etiquette in Edinburgh

Edinburgh residents are generally easygoing, and you won't have much to worry about as an outsider.

12. Fit in like a local

If you meet someone in a social setting, an informal “hi” or a handshake is the usual greeting. As a visitor, you’re unlikely to inadvertently cause offense in this friendly city, though subjects like politics and religion are generally best avoided in small talk.

While Edinburgh is largely free of the tensions between Catholics and Protestants seen in parts of Glasgow, visiting fans of the football teams Celtic (supported by Catholics) and Rangers (supported by protestants) can sometimes be rowdy, particularly if their team loses to Edinburgh rivals Hearts or Hibernian.

Scottish independence and Brexit can inspire passionate responses too. Remember that Edinburgh is in Scotland, which is a part of Britain, but you’re definitely not in England. While lots of English people happily make Edinburgh their home, the England football team is traditionally booed with enthusiasm, while the Scottish national team is supported with almost religious devotion.

13. Know the local lingo

Edinburgh is a cosmopolitan city, and the local accent is easy to understand, but you may not recognize every word you hear. Take, for example, the local terms haar (a sea fog), Jambos (supporters of local club Hearts), Hibbies (hy-bees, supporters of city rivals Hibernian), Weegies (Glaswegians) and salt ‘n sauce (a vinegary and delicious condiment for chips). And you should ken (know) that Cockburn Street is pronounced “Coe-burn” and Edinburgh itself is “Edin-bruh,” or even “Embra.”

14. Buy your round in the pub

Drink-buying etiquette is the same here as elsewhere in Britain – one person usually orders for the group at the bar, paying for a “round” of drinks and bringing them back to the table. Everyone else then takes turns to buy a round, so nobody loses out. In a big group, a few people may split the cost of a round. Needless to say, being the beneficiary of other people's rounds but not buying one in return will ruffle feathers.

Smarter bars may have table service, and almost everywhere will be able to offer a tray if you’ve got lots of drinks to carry, or you can make a few trips (spilling beer on strangers won't win you friends). Most places take cash, although card or phone payments are more common. Pubs stay open later than south of the border – usually until midnight or 1am.

While Edinburgh pubs and bars serve beers, ciders, wines and spirits from across the world, you can also find old-fashioned Scottish beers rated by the "shilling," referring to the cost of a barrel in the 19th century – from 60 shillings (light) to 80 shillings (strong and heavy).

15. Forget your preconceptions of Scottish food

Yes, you can find deep-fried Mars bars, pizzas and even butter. No, it's not what most people in Edinburgh eat. The local food and drink scene is lively and varied, and often focused on healthy, local ingredients, and you'll find cuisines from across the globe, as well as authentic Scottish dishes at restaurants such as Howies, haggis-and-mash specialists Makars Mash Bar and The Piper's Rest.

16. When should you tip, and how much?

Tipping is only really required for table service in restaurants (10 to 15%), although locals often round up taxi fares to the nearest pound. At more expensive restaurants, a service charge may already be added to the bill, so check. If a hotel porter helps with your luggage, a tip of a pound or two per bag is standard; Scottish hotels also charge a 5% visitor levy for the first 5 nights of your stay, but this is automatically added to your bill. Tour guides will also appreciate a tip for their services.

17. The Pink Triangle is where to find LGBTQ+ Edinburgh

Same-sex marriage was legalized in Scotland in 2014, and the capital is at the forefront of LGBTQ+ rights, so gay travelers will face few problems. Edinburgh’s gay scene is centered on the “Pink Triangle,” just northeast of Princes Street. CC Blooms is the mainstay, with (fairly expensive) food in the day and cabaret and DJs at night. Down the road in Abbeyhill, the Regent is a laid-back alternative.

Health and safety in Edinburgh

The Scottish capital is one of Europe's safest capitals, but there are a few things to keep in mind.

18. Edinburgh is a safe city – but watch those cobbles!

Crime affecting tourists is uncommon in Edinburgh, but pub-packed areas like the Cowgate (Old Town), Rose Street (New Town) and Lothian Road (West End) can get a little rowdy on Friday and Saturday nights, though serious trouble is rare. Calton Hill offers good views during the day but is best avoided at night, particularly if you're on your own.

Pickpockets sometimes operate in crowded areas and during the Festival, so watch your bags, phone and valuables. Take the usual precautions you would in any big city, including being cautious of offers of drinks from strangers. Solo travelers may prefer to use recognized ride-sharing apps or black cabs for late-night transport for peace of mind.

Street scams are rare, but there are a few physical hazards. The sloping cobbles of the Old Town are slippery when wet, and even slicker when icy, so wear shoes with good grip. When crossing roads, remember that traffic drives on the left, and use pedestrian crossings where available.

19. Attractions are mostly accessible

Most modern hotels and attractions are accessible for travelers with disabilities, but many older buildings – including guesthouses and some pubs and restaurants – lack ramps and lifts. Navigating the New Town, with its wide streets, is more straightforward for wheelchair users than the steep, sometimes cobbled streets of the Old Town. Tourism body VisitScotland has a useful guide that covers accessible accommodation.

20. Can you drink the water?

Oh yes. Edinburgh tap water is safe to drink, and you can request it for free with your meal in a restaurant. The region’s water is soft (low in dissolved minerals), giving it a fresher taste than water from much of the UK. Around the city, you can still see evidence of the freshwater springs that used to supply Edinburgh with drinking water, including St Margaret's Well in Holyrood Park and St Bernard's Well by the Water of Leith Walkway.