Browsing Music City vinyl at Grimey's. Courtesy of Nashville Convention & Visitors Corp
When people think of Nashville, it’s typically the neon-lit honkytonks and throngs of cowboy boot-sportin' bachelorettes on Broadway that come to mind. But everyone who lives here knows that the city’s coolest neighborhood is East Nashville.
Creatives drive the energy here, and the eclectic vibe can be felt throughout the area’s vintage shops, record stores, dive bars and coffee shops. The neighborhood also has the highest concentration of Nashville’s best restaurants – sumptuous Laotian fare, blisteringly hot Thai fried chicken and inventive omakase are all on the menu here.
I love that East Nash embraces its weird – the quirkier, the better. I mean, every year they throw a massive street party in honor of the humble tomato, complete with live bands, tons of food and people decked out in their finest tomato garb. It’s a time.
Historic homes mingle with trendy shops and wide expanses of green space. There’s a little bit of everything in East Nashville; the problem is figuring out how to cram everything in while you’re there.
Getting to and around East Nashville
Because there are no direct bus lines from the BNA to East Nashville, the best way to get there from the airport is to use a rideshare service like Uber or Lyft. A taxi is also a good option and will run you about $30-$40. Once you’re there, you’ll find that several areas of the neighborhood are quite walkable, but you’ll want to enlist the help of a rideshare or car rental service again if you’re looking to go beyond a few blocks' radius.
Where to stay in East Nashville
Save: If you’re not going the short-term rental route, like an Airbnb, it can be tough securing much savings on hotels in East Nash. Still, Ironwood Grove offers the best bang for your buck. While the price is comparable to my “spend” pick, each adorable tiny home in this little enclave comes with kitchen accommodations, so you can save a bit on eating out.
Spend: Waymore's Guest House & Casual Club fits right in with East Nashville’s quirky and funked-up vibe, with its midcentury modern velvet couches, floral textiles and potted plants. The high ceilings make the rooms feel more spacious than they are, and the rooftop bar, Tall Tales, has a killer view of downtown and green spaces that make it feel a world away from that very scene.
Spend More: If you’re willing to splurge a bit, you can secure a room in a Queen Anne mansion that’s been taken over by Urban Cowboy Nashville. There are only eight rooms, each one outfitted to feel like a ranch hand hit paydirt, with luxe leather, tapestry and woods. Plus, Urban Cowboy is home to a buzzy patio bar scene and some fantastic pizza courtesy of Roberta’s.
Where to get coffee in East Nashville:
Dose: An East Nash fave, this clean, airy cafe has been consistently voted as one of the best coffee bars in the US, and for good reason – the brew is exceptional, as are their savory pastries and sandwiches.
Osa Coffee Roasters: Osa not only roasts its own coffee, but it’s also known as a gathering place for caffeine warriors and their doggos who like to post up on the couches inside. Keep your order simple: a drip coffee, or if it’s warm out, a cold brew coffee with a touch of local honey and a dollop of half and half.
Ugly Mugs: On a sunny day, the patio at this longtime East Nash coffee klatch is where you’ll find locals soaking up sun and sipping on Porch Swing Punch made with High Garden tea. But inside the industrial-style cafe is plenty of space to stay warm during the winter with a café au lait and a croissant.
Where to eat in East Nashville
Breakfast
Egg Drip: The generously stuffed Korean-inspired egg sandwiches at this permanently parked food trailer have a cult following and are guaranteed to fuel you way beyond lunch.
Cafe Roze: I really like the stout waffles with date butter at this polished pastel cafe, but if I need a quick hit of protein, the egg bowl with feta bulgur and preserved lemon yogurt is a light but filling way to start the day.
Yeast: Great bakery stop for a quick pick-up-and-go situation. Can’t go wrong with the sweet or savory kolaches here or the breakfast tacos.
Lunch
Kisser: Eating at Kisser will require getting there right when it opens. Otherwise, plan on waiting a while to get your seat – it’s walk-in only. But is the wait for this Japanese spot worth it? Without a doubt. The onigiri and chicken katsu sandwich are beloved dishes.
Fatbelly Pretzel Bakery & Deli: The stacked sandwiches on pretzel hoagie buns at Fatbelly are a city-wide legend. That’s mostly due to their ridiculously delicious fillings – sous-vide pork belly, Hawaiian Mac salad and rare roast beef – plus creative off-the-menu concoctions.
The Wash: If you’re feeling indecisive, hit up The Wash. The restaurant offers six different concepts, including an excellent (and really spicy!) Thai fried chicken, savory Cuban bites and a bar serving up frosty drinks.
Aperitivo
The Fox Bar & Cocktail Club: Hands down, this is my favorite bar in the city. Get there right when they open at 5pm for a seat (or make a reservation), and enjoy a beautifully made martini for two with their killer hot chicken hummus as a snack.
Urban Cowboy Public House: The quintessential East Nashville hang, the outdoor patio is always a scene and a great place to grab a cocktail before the start of the night.
Lockeland Table: The Community Hour at Lockeland Table runs Monday through Saturday and offers up $7 snacks, like a knockout queso fundito and smoked trout dip, as well as drinks. I love that a portion of the proceeds from the Community Hour benefit the PTOs of schools in and around Nashville.
A beautifully plated dish at Bad Idea. Courtesy of Nashville Convention & Visitors Corp
Dinner
Bad Idea: Contrary to its name, eating at Bad Idea is, actually, a wonderful idea. Situated in a former church, the inventive Laotian-inspired bites paired with the funkiest wine list in the city make this a Nashville favorite.
Noko: Nabbing reservations for dinner at Noko is notoriously tough but absolutely worth it. You can smell the wood-fired cooking from the parking lot, and it's used to great effect on Asian-inspired bites like edamame in truffle oil and a massive tomahawk. The crudos and crab fried rice are a must.
Alebrije: Some of the best Mexican food in the city can be found in this small dining room on the second floor of a strip mall office building. The huaraches and tacos are a revelation, and the mini churros stuffed with cajeta end the meal on a very high note.
Where to shop in East Nashville
Grimey’s: The best vinyl shop in all of Nashville. After you're done perusing the stacks, head directly behind the store and pick up some vintage threads from Anaconda.
The Hip Zipper: Speaking of vintage threads, The Hip Zipper is one of the OG spots for picking up unique pieces from the past. Tony Lama boots, '70s maxis and velvet skirt sets from the 1930s are just some of the finds you can score.
Apple & Oak: I never know what fun knickknack I’ll find to decorate my house (or body!) with here. A banana shag rug? A leopard statue? A pair of swan slippers? They’re all part of the irreverent goods Apple & Oak keeps stocked.
The Bookshop: I can always count on finding a beautiful, obscure read at this cozy little indie bookstore. The owner curates her picks to the hilt, with gorgeous specialty interest reads, classics and works from local authors.
Killjoy: A booze-free spirit shop might sound like an oxymoron, but Killjoy is the real deal, stocking the latest, greatest and tastiest no-ABV beverages, some with the added boost of adaptogens and CBD.
"Dolly's Lemonade Stand" is a staple at Dino's in the summer. Courtesy of Nashville Convention & Visitors Corp
Where to spend a night out in East Nashville
Dino’s: One of the best dive bars in town with a cheeseburger that won’t quit. During the summer, their patio hosts “Dolly’s Lemonade Stand” and serves up boozy frozen drinks and Jell-O shots.
The Coral Club: This bar in an unassuming office building feels worlds away from Nashville with its candle-lit grotto vibes. The cocktails are a step above what you’ll find at your typical bar, and on Wednesdays, they host a pop-up with locally beloved Pizza Lolo.
Martha My Dear: Martha’s is an industry fave, which tells you all you need to know about the scene and drinks here. It’s low-key and unpretentious, an unfussy bar that’s great for playing pool and casual conversation among friends.
Rosemary & Beauty Queen: A night at RBQ is like hanging out at your funky great-aunt’s house, complete with swings, velvet armchairs and a spot-on Paloma. The rooftop cabanas are absolutely made to entertain a group.
Skinny Dennis: A relative newcomer to the East Nashville scene, Skinny Dennis fashions itself a honkytonk – the music and dancing are right on target in that respect. And while that’s a lot of fun, it's the bar food from Little Miss Mao that shines. A night isn’t complete without their prahok ktiss and a Willie’s frozen coffee.
Best things to do in East Nashville
If you’re looking to get outside while in East Nashville, the 960-acre Shelby Bottoms Greenway and Natural Area has plenty to do. There are over five miles of trails for hiking, biking, running, skating and wildlife watching, and three miles of Cumberland River frontage. While you’re there, stop into the Shelby Bottoms Nature Center to learn more about the park and take part in one of their many lectures and events.
When to visit
The best time to visit Nashville in general is summer or fall, when the spring rains have cleared and the risk of being snowed in is nonexistent. Summer also happens to coincide with East Nashville’s Tomato Art Fest, a massive two-day street party in August with concerts, art, shopping, food and wacky costumes honoring the humble veggie/fruit. It’s been an East Nashville tradition for over 20 years, and I can’t think of a better time for visitors to get a taste of the neighborhood.