A Guide to Belize

Anyone who dips a toe into Belize’s azure waters can’t help but be captivated by the country’s eclectic mix of jungles, beaches, reefs, culture and history. Small, but rich in cultural and natural treasures, Belize weaves a powerful spell.

Part Caribbean, part Latin American, this compact Central American nation carries the legacy of British and Spanish colonization in its language and government – but contemporary Belizeans are a proud mix of Creole and Mestizo people, Garinagu (Garifuna), Maya, European Mennonites and long-term foreign residents. A similar diversity extends to the country's extraordinary natural landscapes, spanning rainforests, pine forests, rocky riverbeds and mangrove-lined lagoons.

While the beach-lined coral islands draw the crowds, much of the Belizean mainland is refreshingly untouristed. At markets in the towns of Orange Walk and San Ignacio, on the beaches of Placencia, among the Garifuna drummers at Hopkins, and at Maya sites all over the country, you'll experience traditions and customs that aren’t staged to appeal to foreign visitors’ tastes.

Even though Belize is a small country with a low population density, there's much to see beyond the famous sights and sun-drenched islands, particularly if you roam to the dense rainforests and pine woodlands along the border with Guatemala, or the outlying islands scattered along the amazing Belize Barrier Reef.

You could traverse the length of the coast in one long day by road, but there's plenty to see along the way, and myriad attractions await deeper in the rainforest, so take your time. Travel through some of the longest cave systems in Central America by inner tube, climb Maya temples that remain the tallest human-made structures in the country, and stop at roadside food stalls that serve the best of Belizean cuisine.

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Intrigued? Whether it's your first time in Central America or you're a regular visitor, here's a guide to getting the best from a trip to Belize.

When Should I Go To Belize?

Many visitors to Belize swear by the shoulder season in November and May, when there’s still plenty of sunshine and many dry days. What’s more, you won’t have to share the temples, beaches and jungles with the crowds.

Some activities, though, are definitely better in the dry months of the peak season from December to April – also known as the Blue Season – as rain can put a damper on being active outdoors. The Blue Season is the best time to explore the Maya wonders at Caracol, Altun Ha, Lamanai and Xunantunich, and go deep underground at sacred caves such as Actun Tunichil Muknal and Nohoch Che’en.

The dry weather creates ideal conditions for birding, sunbathing, swimming and diving on the beaches of Caye Caulker, Ambergris Caye and hundreds of other islands along the Belize Barrier Reef. Accordingly, hotels and transport operators bump up their prices by 30% to 50%.

By contrast, the low season from June to mid-November – known locally as the Green Season – brings welcome lower prices and fewer crowds. While there is a higher chance of rainfall at this time of the year, showers never last for very long, and with the lack of visitors, you'll get to know Belize more intimately and you may have some attractions all to yourself.

Resorts often slash their prices in the Green Season, meaning some real bargains for travelers who don’t need constant sunshine. Play it safe and bring waterproofs, a rain-proof cover for your backpack and a dry bag for your electronics.

How Much Time Should I Spend in Belize?

With Belize’s proximity to the USA, combined with well-established travel routes by air, land and sea, a quick 3–4-day trip is quite doable, though staying longer will reveal more of the country's charms. If you're arriving by air, you'll kick off in Belize City, within easy reach of the country's most famous coral islands by fast boat.

On any short stay, focus on Ambergris Caye – Belize’s tourism hub, sometimes known as La Isla Bonita – which balances large-scale tourism development with a fun, laid-back atmosphere. In between golf-cart jaunts and bar hopping in bustling San Pedro, you can pass days on the sand or snorkeling and diving at dozens of sites off Belize’s northern coast.

Still, it’s hard to do justice to the country in such a short timeframe. A week or 10 days in Belize will let you roam beyond the famous Belize Barrier Reef (the world’s second-longest). Spend a day or two in Belize City, where the colonial past is on full display, then experience the islands and head inland into the rainforest for wonderful wildlife encounters and journeys of discovery in ancient Maya cities.

In the north, Orange Walk Town and Corozal Town are appealingly uncrowded, serving up coastal ruins, Yucatán-endemic birdlife and uninterrupted tracts of lagoon-dotted scenery. Over in the rugged and forest-cloaked west of the country, you can drift between Cayo’s hilly towns and venture into forest reserves to find ancient Maya cities, waterfall-lined rivers, luxe eco-lodges, zip-lining and horse-riding adventures, and much more.

Is it Easy To Get Around in Belize?

Thanks partly to Belize’s popularity with visitors, it’s easy to get between major sites on the mainland by bus or rented 4WD or car, and from Belize City to the islands by boat or plane. Flights also zip to small airstrips in the rainforest and along the mainland coast.

Many visitors depart from Belize City (home to the country’s international airport) to the islands of Caye Ambergris and Caye Caulker by water taxi. If you're heading to either island, the San Pedro Belize Express terminal is located near the tourism village in Belize City, about a 25-minute drive from the international airport.

Efficient boat services shuttle visitors from Belize City to Caye Caulker (which takes 45 minutes), then on to San Pedro, the main settlement on Ambergris Caye (a further 30 minutes). Boats then return to Belize City following the same route.

Whether you rent a car on the mainland (available with or without a driver) or rent a golf cart on the islands that have roads, having your own vehicle will give you maximum flexibility. Note that Belizean roads are riddled with speed bumps and potholes, have little to no hard shoulder and often have faded road lines. Drive with care, particularly after rain, or during the rainy season, when road surfaces can deteriorate.

A faster but pricier (and less environmentally friendly) way to get from point to point within Belize is by air. Domestic carriers Tropic Air and Maya Island Air both operate small propeller planes between Belize City, San Pedro and Caye Caulker, as well as to Corozal, Punta Gorda and other towns on the mainland.

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To travel like a local on the mainland, take an inter-city bus. The country’s fleet is made up of retired American school buses, painted in vibrant Caribbean colors. Various private operators traverse the major highways of the mainland; the longest route connects Belize City with Punta Gorda, a 7-hour trip.

Top Things To Do in Belize

Start in Belize City and the islands, but be sure to also explore some of the Maya sites, rural communities and rainforest reserves on the mainland, where you can immerse yourself in local culture and customs and meet the wildlife.

Explore the Country’s History in Belize City

As the original capital and site of the first British settlement, Belize City still shows evidence of its 17th-century colonial history, with architecture, monuments and museums that offer insights into the country’s past. A visit to the modern Museum of Belize in the Fort George District will help contextualize the colonial and independence eras, with an exhibit on the history of enslaved people and an interesting contemporary art gallery.

Fronting the sea at the end of Regent St, Government House is a handsome, white two-story colonial mansion that served as the residence of the British superintendents and governors of Belize from the building’s construction in 1814.

It was here, at midnight on September 21, 1981, that the British Union Jack was ceremonially replaced with the Belizean flag to mark the birth of the independent nation. Opposite Government House is St John’s Cathedral, the oldest Anglican church in Central America, built in 1820.

Take the Plunge at the Blue Hole

About 50 miles offshore, spectacular Lighthouse Reef is the most remote of Belize’s three atolls, but it’s the most famous and most visited, thanks to the allure of the mysterious Blue Hole Natural Monument. Stunning wall dives with majestic swim-throughs and clear blue water make the reef a diving bucket-list favorite.

Made famous by underwater pioneer Jacques Cousteau, the Blue Hole – actually a marine sinkhole – has become an icon of Belize, and it's easily reached on day trips by boat from San Pedro on Ambergris Caye, or from Caye Caulker. When seen from above, it appears as a perfectly round, deep-azure circle with an aquamarine border surrounded by the lighter hues of the reef.

While you shouldn’t expect to see too much undersea wildlife in the depths of the Blue Hole, the dive offers a rare opportunity for a heart-pounding descent into a majestic underwater sinkhole. The chance of spotting reef sharks and the occasional hammerhead further sweetens the deal.

Once in the water, you'll drop quickly to 130ft, and then swim beneath a dramatic overhang, observing stalactites above and – if luck is with you – sharks circling below. Although the water is clear, light levels are low, so a good dive light will help you fully appreciate the rock formations. Because of the depth, ascent begins after 8 minutes (the brevity of the dive may disappoint some divers).

Planning tip: Trips to the Blue Hole are usually combined with other dives at Lighthouse Reef, which many divers consider the real highlight. Due to the Blue Hole’s depth, you must have advanced open-water certification to dive here. Note that the national-park fees for the Blue Hole Natural Monument and Half Moon Caye Natural Monument are usually paid separately to the cost of your dive.

Go Snorkeling in Bacalar Chico National Park & Marine Reserve

At the northern tip of Ambergris Caye, Bacalar Chico National Park & Marine Reserve consists of 41 sq miles of protected land and sea, accessible only by boat at the end of an hour-long boat ride from San Pedro. A day-long excursion to this part of Belize’s UNESCO-listed barrier reef ecosystem will be a highlight of any visit to the Belizean coast.

Boats motor through an ancient channel excavated by seafaring Maya about 1500 years ago (it now separates Ambergris Caye from the mainland of Mexico). The coral is particularly vibrant and colorful within the reserve, as there’s less damage from boats and tourist development. Alongside bountiful fish, you may see manatees as well as green and loggerhead turtles.

Planning tip: You get several snorkeling stops on each trip. If the waters are calm, some tour boats go to Rocky Point, notable as one of the only places in the region where the land meets the reef. On the return trip, some boats make a final snorkeling stop at Mexico Rocks.

Hike Through a Belizean National Park or Reserve

Belize is home to 17 national parks and numerous other protected areas – a sign of a commendable committment to environmental conservation at both a governmental and societal level. Some are strung out along the coast, while others preserve areas of virgin rainforest and highland pine forest close to the Guatemalan border.

Staying in a luxury eco-lodge in a reserve such as Mountain Pine Ridge Forest Reserve south of San Ignacio is a wonderful way to escape the modern age into a world of jungle noises, delicious meals prepared using ingredients grown in the lodges' organic gardens, and waking up to hummingbirds on the balcony of your wooden cabin.

At most lodges, you'll also get the opportunity to hike into the forest, where you can enjoy easy sightings of colorful bird species and encounters with animals such as monkeys and inquisitive coatis – which look like a cross between a dog and a raccoon.

Planning tip: At lodges such as Gaïa Riverlodge in Mountain Pine Ridge Forest Reserve, you can also swim in rocky plunge pools beside pristine forest rivers, so bring your swimming costume.

Visit Magnificent Maya Cities at Altun Ha and Caracol

Ancient Maya sites pop up all over Belize, but some are particularly memorable. With its immaculate central plaza, Altun Ha, around 31 miles from Belize City, is modestly sized for an ancient Maya site, but it is nonetheless spectacular. This prosperous Maya trading and agricultural center once spread over 1500 acres, but what visitors can see today is focused on the central ceremonial precinct, with two plazas surrounded by temples.

Two grand structures – the Temple of the Green Tomb and the Temple of the Masonry Altars, both dating to the 7th century CE – stand tall on the plaza. Fronted by steep steps, both pyramids once contained the treasure-laden tombs of local notables.

A priceless carved head of Kinich Ahau, the Maya sun god, was excavated from the latter temple and today resides in the vault of the Central Bank of Belize. A replica is on display at the Museum of Belize in Belize City, and its likeness can also be seen on the top-left corner of Belizean banknotes.

Nestled in the Chiquibul forest near the Guatemalan border, Caracol remains the tallest human-made structure in Belize. The structure known as the Caana (Sky Palace) tops out at 141ft, and the site was inhabited till around 950 CE.

Getting here requires a bumpy drive of around 2 hours each way from San Ignacio in Cayo district but it is well worth the journey. This is the largest Maya site in the country; it once supported a population of 150,000 before being abandoned, perhaps because of droughts and deforestation or social unrest.

Exploring Caracol takes a full day, but your explorations will reveal fascinating details about both the Maya and modern archeological endeavors. As an added perk, the surrounding rainforest is alive with animals such as coatis, spider and howler monkeys, and myriad bird species.

Planning tip: Access to Caracol is through the Mountain Pine Ridge Forest Reserve, and most visitors come from San Ignacio on a tour or with a chartered vehicle and driver. The road was recently paved as far as the San Miguel Campgrounds, one of the only places in Belize where outdoor camping is possible.

How Much Money Do I Need for Belize?

Prices in Belize are a little higher than in other countries in the region such as Mexico and Guatemala, but there are still plenty of options for penny-watching travelers. There are also lots of high-end eco-lodges and beach resorts where you'll need a larger budget. Here are some sample costs:

• A hostel bed in San Pedro on Ambergris Caye: from 65 Belize dollars (BZ$)

• A double room at a beach hotel in Placencia: BZ$100–500

• A meal at a local Belizean restaurant: BZ$15–50

• A bottle of Belizean beer in a bar: BZ$7–10

• Admission to the Museum of Belize: BZ$10

• Entrance to the Caracol ancient site: BZ$25

• A full-day trip (including lunch) to Bacalar Chico National Park: from BZ$350

• A day-long diving trip to Lighthouse Reef and the Blue Hole: from BZ$600 per person

Tips for diving the Blue Hole

On day trips to Lighthouse Reef, the Blue Hole will be your first dive of the day, and the site can be a little unsettling if you’re unfamiliar with the location and your fellow divers. As well as advanced open-water certification, most operators require divers to have logged a dive to at least 80ft within the last 6 months, or to have already dived with thee operator's dive masters before setting out on a Blue Hole trip.

The boat trip to Lighthouse Reef and the Blue Hole from Ambergris Caye or Caye Caulker takes just over 2 hours each way and the crossing can sometimes be rough. Take steps to prevent seasickness if you are prone to the condition. And avoid partying too hard in San Pedro the night before diving the Blue Hole – this is a dive you want to be at your best for.

A tip: if you aren't able to dive the Blue Hole, you can always hop on a plane in San Pedro and fly over it. Both Tropic Air and Maya Island Air offer scenic flights that circle around the sinkhole, offering spectacular views from above. Flights also buzz over Turneffe Atoll and other structures at Lighthouse Reef.

This article was adapted from Lonely Planet’s latest Central America guidebook.