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Defined by its castle, roads paved with chunky limestone and shale, imposing slate-roofed houses and views out to the Drina Valley, Gjirokastra is a magical hillside town described beautifully by Albania's most famous author, Ismail Kadare (b 1936), in Chronicle in Stone. There has been a settlement here for 2500 years, though these days it's the 600 'monumental' Ottoman-era houses in town that attract visitors. For Albanians, the town is also synonymous with former dictator Enver Hoxha, who was born here and ensured the town was relatively well preserved under his rule, though he is not memorialised in any way here today.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Gjirokastra.
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Gjirokastra's eerie hilltop castle is one of the biggest in the Balkans. There's been a fortress here since the 12th century, although much of what can be seen today dates to the early 19th century. The castle remains somewhat infamous due to its use as a prison under the communists. Inside there's a collection of armoury, two good museums, plenty of crumbling ruins to scramble around, and superb views over the valley.
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This incredible three-storey house dates from 1811 and has twin towers and a double-arched facade. It's fascinating to nose around the almost unchanged interiors of an Ottoman-era home, especially the upstairs galleries, which have carved wooden ceilings, stained-glass windows and detailed wall frescoes.
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Gjirokastra's most interesting sight in no way relates to traditional architecture, but instead to a far more modern kind: this is a giant bunker built deep under the castle for use by the local authorities during the full-scale invasion that communist leader Enver Hoxha was so paranoid about. Built in secret during the 1960s, it has 80 rooms, its existence remained unknown to locals until the 1990s. Personal guided tours run from the tourist information booth on the main square all day.
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The lovingly restored Ottoman-era Skenduli House has been in the hands of the same family for generations (apart from a few years during the communist period when the government took it over), and you'll most likely be shown around by a member of the family. Dating from the early 1700s, but partially rebuilt in 1827, the house has many fascinating features, including a room used only for wedding ceremonies and which has 15 windows, many with stained glass.
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This interesting museum is a beautifully lit and presented, fully English-signed display on the long and fascinating history of the town. Some highlights include a 6th-century grave containing the skeletons of two small children, as well as information on such luminaries connected with Gjirokastra as Ali Pasha, Lord Byron, Edward Lear and Enver Hoxha.
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As well as photos of the partisan resistance against the Italians and a vast number of rifles and machine guns, it's possible to visit the cells where political prisoners were kept between 1929 and 1968. It's a humbling experience. Look for the seven windows that face the town here: 'You'll be sent to the seven windows' was a common threat in the town throughout the communist era.
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This museum houses local homewares and was built on the site of Enver Hoxha's former house, in the middle of the Old Town. Its collection is interesting if you're a fan of local arts and crafts, but don't come expecting anything about Hoxha himself.
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The 'Neck of the Bazaar' makes up the centre of the Old Town but what were once artisanal workshops are today mainly tourist souvenir shops. There are a couple of stone carvers left at the top end of the bazaar.