Triumphs & Laments

Trastevere & Gianicolo


This vast and fading frieze adorns the River Tiber walls between Ponte Sisto and Ponte Mazzini. The creation of South African artist William Kentridge, it stretches for 550m and comprises more than 80 figures, some up to 12m high, illustrating episodes from Rome's history. Look for depictions of Roman emperor Marcus Aurelius, Mussolini, and actor Marcello Mastroianni who's shown kissing Anita Ekberg in a re-creation of the famous Trevi Fountain scene from La Dolce Vita.

The images were created by using stencils and power-washing the travertine walls to create shadows against the white-grey stone background.

The best peeks at the mural amid the overhanging trees are to be had from the Lungotevere Tebaldi, on the centro storico side of the river.


Lonely Planet's must-see attractions

Nearby Trastevere & Gianicolo attractions

1. Villa Farnesina

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Admire the interior of this gorgeous 16th-century villa, fantastically frescoed from top to bottom.

3. Galleria Corsini

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Once home to Queen Christina of Sweden, whose bedroom reputedly witnessed a steady stream of male and female lovers, the 16th-century Palazzo Corsini was…

4. Arco Farnese

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An overhead arch spanning Via Giulia, the Arco Farnese was designed by Michelangelo as part of an unfinished project to connect Palazzo Farnese with Villa…

5. Fontana del Mascherone

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At the southern end of Via Giulia, the Fontana del Mascherone is a 17th-century fountain showing what looks like a gormless hippy surprised by water…

6. Via Giulia

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Designed by Bramante in 1508 as part of an urban development program ordered by Pope Julius II, Via Giulia is one of Rome's most charming streets, an…

7. Porta Settimiana

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Resembling a crenellated keep, Porta Settimiana marks the start of Via della Lungara, the 16th-century road that connects Trastevere with the Borgo. It…

8. Orto Botanico

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Formerly the private grounds of Palazzo Corsini, Rome’s 12-hectare botanical gardens are a little-known, slightly neglected gem and a great place to…