Lying on the banks of the Kherlen Gol, 324km downstream from Chinggis Khot, is Choibalsan, Mongolia’s easternmost capital and a most welcome sight if you're craving a hot shower, a decent bed, and an opportunity to dine out that doesn't involve camping food after days in the steppe. It’s in two parts: a half-abandoned district to the west where there was widespread looting following the Russian departure in 1990,...
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