Given its isolation from any town of significance, the vast and incredibly well-preserved Mesoamerican city of Cantona is virtually unknown to travelers. With 24 ball courts discovered, this is now believed to have been the biggest single urban center in Mesoamerica, stretching over 12 sq km in an ethereal lava-bed landscape dotted with cacti and yucca and enjoying incredible views of Pico de Orizaba to the south.
The site was inhabited from AD 600 to 1000 and is of interest for two main reasons. Unlike most other Mesoamerican cities, no mortar was used to build it, meaning all the stones are simply held in place by their weight. It’s also unique in its design sophistication – all parts of the city are linked by an extensive network of raised roads connecting some 3000 residences. There are several small pyramids and an elaborate acropolis at the city’s center. With good information panels in English and an access road, Cantona is now being promoted as a tourist attraction. The Museo de Sitio de Cantona is worth a visit, especially if you can read Spanish.
From Oriental, which is the nearest decent-sized town, Grupo Salazar covered pickup-truck colectivos leave every 20 minutes from the corner of Carretera Federal Puebla-Teziutlan and 8 Poniente for Cantona (M$35, 45 minutes). The trucks have ‘Tepeyahualco’ on their windshield. Tell the driver your destination when you board.
Otherwise, taxis to the site are M$150 or more for a round trip. If you have your own transportation, visiting Cantona makes for a good side trip en route to Cuetzalan.