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Si Phan Don (ສີ່ພັນດອນ) is where Laos becomes the land of the lotus-eaters, an archipelago of islands where the pendulum of time swings slowly and postcard-worthy views are the rule rather than the exception. Many a traveller has washed ashore here, succumbed to its charms and stayed longer than expected.
Down here the Mekong bulges to a breadth of 14km – the river’s widest reach along its 4350km journey from the Tibetan Plateau to the South China Sea – and if you count every islet and sandbar that emerges in the dry months the name, which literally means ‘Four Thousand Islands’, isn't that much of an exaggeration.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Si Phan Don.
Waterfall
More a glorified set of rapids than a waterfall, but oh, how glorious it is. The largest and by far the most awesome waterfall anywhere along the Mekong, Khon Phapheng is pure, unrestrained aggression, as millions of litres of water crash over the rocks. While pricier than the similar Tat Somphamit, this place, with its gardens and walking paths, is more attractive. You can also get down closer to the rapids.
Waterfall
Now billing itself as the Don Khone Somphamit Waterfalls Park, vast Tat Somphamit (also called Li Phi) is a gorgeous set of raging rapids. Recent developments include clear walking paths and the Mekong Fly zipline. While local fishers risk their skin edging out onto rocks, don't try this yourself – the rapids are extremely dangerous, and there have been deaths.
Waterfall
Although it's not the largest waterfall on the islands, Khon Pa Soi Falls is still pretty impressive, and it never gets crowded due to its isolated location. From the little restaurant (sometimes only serving cold drinks) cross the big, fun (or scary, depending on the person) wooden suspension bridge to Don Pa Soi island and follow the roar 200m to the main waterfall.
Cave
Two kilometres north of Muang Khong a trail leads to Green Mountain Cave, a small, shallow shelter in the middle of the forest. It holds some fairly crude Buddha images and bits of broken pottery and is the object of an annual pilgrimage, usually in June. It's definitely more about the journey than the destination.
Museum
When the local governor built this two-storey French colonial–style home in 1935, he was so proud of himself that he christened it Sathanavoudthi, which means 'Garden of Eden' in an old Lao dialect. Level-headed locals just called it 'The Brick House'. In 2010 it was restored and now houses one of Laos' smallest museums. But the musical instruments, animal traps and photos of the Don Khon railway are worth a few minutes of your time.
Farm
Although sugar palms can be seen across the island, Ban Hin Siew Tai is southern Laos' sugar capital. Many farmers here climb the trees twice a day to collect the juice and then boil it down to sugar, and if you see them working you are welcome to pop in for a visit. The sugar season is from November to February and early morning is the best time to go.
Buddhist Temple
At the northern end of Muang Khong is Wat Jom Thong, the oldest temple on the island, dating from the Chao Anou period (1805–28). The wihăhn (temple hall) features a cruciform floor plan, a unique triple-gated entrance, carved wooden doors and shutters, and a bevy of mythical Hindu-Buddhist creatures adorning the roof and gables.
Market
This little morning market, full of both farmed and foraged foods, is a vibrant slice of island life.
Viewpoint
Near the old French port in Ban Hang Khon, 150 steps take you up to a good viewpoint of the Mekong.