As much as the exhibitions, the highlight of Rome’s leading contemporary art gallery is the Zaha Hadid–designed building it occupies. Formerly a barracks, the curved concrete structure is striking inside and out with a multilayered geometric facade and a cavernous light-filled interior full of snaking walkways and suspended staircases.

The gallery has a permanent collection of 20th- and 21st-century works, of which a selection are on free display in Gallery 4, but more interesting are its international exhibitions.

In recent times these have included works by William Kentridge, the South African artist and author of the Triumphs & Laments mural on the Tiber embankment, and a study of Japanese domestic architecture.