If you've got a 4WD, make your way to Maralinga, 400km northwest of Ceduna – a 9½-hour approach. It was here at Ground Zero that the British detonated seven nuclear bombs between 1956 and 1963, doing a notoriously bad job of protecting the local Maralinga Tjarutja people from fallout and cleaning up afterwards. Tour the site and hear the stories.
Two-day tours involve two nights of camping or hut-style accommodation (you have to arrive the day before the tour, and can stay the night after if you wish). There's no fuel in Maralinga; BYO.