The largest town in Barotseland, and the capital of the Western Province, is on high ground overlooking the flat and seemingly endless Liuwa Plain. This is a low-key town with plenty of activity on the streets but little to draw travellers outside of the annual Kuomboka ceremony, when thousands flock here and room prices skyrocket.
The town is quite spread out with no real centre and the highlight is the spectacular panoramic view over the flood plains. From a harbour on the southwestern outskirts of town, an 8km canal runs westwards to meet a tributary of the Zambezi. The river port is a settlement of reed-and-thatch buildings, where local fishers sell their catch, and it’s a good spot for people-watching as longboats glide down the river transporting people and goods to nearby villages.